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Universal Blacksmith Tongs
March 13, 2017
4:24 pm
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Bill Kirkley
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The box jaw adapter gave me the idea to carry things further and create a pair of tongs where the top and bottom jaws were removable.  This enables a single pair of tongs to handle a large range of stock sizes and shapes.  The following is a link to a YouTube video and photos of three jaw configurations:

LR-Univ-Tongs-1.jpgImage Enlarger

LR-Univ-Tongs-2.jpgImage Enlarger
LR-Univ-Tongs-3.jpgImage Enlarger

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March 13, 2017
6:57 pm
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Lee Cordochorea
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See also: US Patent number 1420516 from 1921.

I like these better, though. The 1921 patent requires a milling machine or shaper to make them. (Although Monica Coyne might just be able to forge a set…)

No matter where you go... there you are.

March 16, 2017
6:05 pm
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Bill Kirkley
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Interesting Lee.  I am sure I posted a reply but it seems to be missing!?  Maybe it was on a different thread. 

I was wondering how you knew about the patent. 

March 17, 2017
6:46 pm
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billyO
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Hi Bill.  I’m wondering how much weight the adapter adds to the tongs? 

March 18, 2017
6:04 am
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Bill Kirkley
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BillyO,  The heaviest set of detachable jaws is for the 1X1/8 flat bar.  They have a combined weight of 10 oz.  A coupler by itself is 2 1/4 oz.  The jaws on the tongs are 3/8X7/8X1 3/4 inches.  The density of mild steel is .283 pounds/inch cube.  The two jaws weigh .325 pounds(2*.375*.875*1.75*.283) or 5.2 oz.

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March 25, 2017
3:11 pm
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Bill Kirkley
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I made a detachable jaw to handle drifts and punches.  The three slots are 1/4 inch wide and just over 1/8 inch deep, 3/8 inches wide and just over 3/16 inches deep, and 1/2 inch wide and just over 1/4 inch deep.  I found that a pair of box jaws will hold round bar if the depth of the jaw is just over half of the width of the jaw.

Detachable-Jaw-Drifts.jpgImage Enlarger

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April 3, 2017
5:01 pm
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Bill Kirkley
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I made another set of couplers. I bent the wire as before with a torch. Several were greater than or less than 90 degrees.  These were bent cold to 90 degrees. Most bent without a problem. Several broke at the bend.    I am at a loss to explain the failure. 

I tempered the rest at 450 for an hour.   I tested several of the tempered wires and none broke. 

I thought if you heated high carbon steel and let it cool it would not harden and become brittle. Can anyone explain why this happened?

April 3, 2017
6:17 pm
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Bill Kirkley
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I posted this on Bladesmithsforum.com.  Jerrod Miller solved the problem.  He posted that this is basically W1 steel and that in small diameters it can harden if placed on a metal plate to cool.  I tossed them into a steel container.  So, I figure the heated area of some touched the metal container while others did not.

https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/35163-heat-treat-question/

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