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3:56 pm
March 22, 2010
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I have been working on what we are going to do in the hands on slit and drifted hawk class....
I know I only have a few weeks to get it worked out but here are a few of the hawks that are part of the learning curve
Because of time constraints we wont do a spike, rather just a simple square pole... Forged from 4" of 3/4 X 1" mild steel
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
7:28 pm
April 6, 2010
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Great looking hawks, Larry. And, a great example of how hard NWBA hands-on instructors work to prepare for their classes. My name will be in the jar!
7:54 pm
June 3, 2010
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They look pretty good to me Larry. HC bits?
Frosty the Lucky.
1:35 am
April 21, 2010
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I found this page with a buncha examples of hand axes to look at.
3:00 am
March 22, 2010
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Frosty;2796 wrote: They look pretty good to me Larry. HC bits?
Frosty the Lucky.
Nope.... high carbon bits are kind of a no no in my opinion for a real thowing axe.. You are likely to hit the back of a stuck hawk and a mild steel one will bend and can be simply repaired... for just throwning there is no benifit to a hard razor sharp blade and your as likely to break it as anything... Now for a camp axe or something that was really intended to be used as a tool or weapon of course you need some tool or alloy steel in there...
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
1:54 am
March 22, 2010
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Well I am starting to make some tooling for the class...
Today I made 6 H-13 slitters....
Started with 8.5" of 3/4
Used my big rivet gun to upset a bit on the end for the wide bit..
Used a taper die in my new press to set the first part of the taper..
Out of the forge...
And what they look like cleaned up..
Nice long 12" and nice and thin.... hope they work out well...
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
4:44 am
April 21, 2010
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That looks good, do you think W-1 would make good chisels?
5:03 am
March 22, 2010
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Ive never worked with W-1 nor do I really know anything about it... The reason I like the H-13 is because even I can get satisfactory heat treat.... Heat it up just past red and let it cool and it will work (probably work even better if it was properly heat treated)
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
9:13 am
March 26, 2010
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Yeah, thats what I love about H13 and 4340. My heat treating (and knowledge of) is as basic as they come but both materials stand up to my attempts at heat traeting pretty well.
They usually come out pretty tough and not too brittle. I guess if I went by the book they would be eevn better. 4340 is heat to bright red, quench in oil, temper at purple (or blue). H13 is heat to a good orange and cool in air or blow over with an air gun. I don't temper it and it hasn't caused me any problems ..... so far!!!!!!
7:51 am
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
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Larry: What did you use for your eye drift? Picture. Measurements? Thanks, Eric Sprado
3:52 pm
March 22, 2010
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Eric I used a bought drift from Kayne & sons.... I need to figure out how to reasonably produce one, but for $30 its hard to beat theirs...
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
7:23 pm
November 4, 2010
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I tried using one of those commercial, ductile iron drifts to reshape a ball pein eye for conversion to a hawk. It was really tough going. Now I use an ironworker's bull pin to stretch the eye to nearly the right size (but round, of course), then use the ductile iron drift mostly as a mandrel to refine the shape of the eye. The bull pin stands up well to this use, and for some reason -- I think mostly surface finish -- it's much easier to drive.
I haven't figured out and easy way to make a nice, symmetrical, teardrop-shaped, steel tomahawk drfit. At least not an easy way for me to do it. 🙂 If a guy had a big press, and knew how to make the right set (or sets) of dies, I guess it could probably be done by closed die forging. But then a lot of folks here know a lot more about that subject than I do.
11:27 pm
May 13, 2010
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Larry L;4264 wrote: Eric I used a bought drift from Kayne & sons....
Thanks for your purchase Larry
5:25 am
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
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Thanks Larry: In one way I hate to pay for a simple drift-but is cost me $25 to drive to town then I need to snoop around scrap piles to find something suitable to make a drift and so on and so forth!!!!30 bucks plus shipping for the right drift that will show up at my door sound lik a bargain to me.. I see J Newman said "thanks for the purchase Larry" but when I logged on to his homepage I couldn't find anything about drifts?? J-can you replay and help me. I'd just as soon do business with someone from this site... Eric
6:01 am
March 22, 2010
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John makes the drifts that the Kaynes sell... So you are doing business with John, just a round a bout way.... And You'll be happy, John makes a fine tool:D
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
11:04 am
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
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Thanks Larry: I just ordered one online.A Bit high for shipping but still a LOT less than the drive to town,hunt for scrap tool steel,drive home, screw up unidentified piece of scrap in the forge,swear a lot, wind up ordering it online anyway.MAYBE getting older and wiser..........
1:36 pm
May 13, 2010
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I need to get my blacksmith tools on my website. But even if I had them on the website, the Kaynes would be the ones to go to in the US. So thanks Eric for ordering one from them.
6:47 am
NWBA Member
August 7, 2010
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Good Morning,
John Newman has been selling his product at NWBA Conferences since he was at CanIRONVI in Victoria, 2007. There was just a difference that Neil Gustafson and Ron Wailes were selling it. Same as ordering from Kayne.
Same pile, different trowel.
As long as we are above our shoes, We know where we are.:happy:
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