7:51 am
January 13, 2013
Hi, I'm building a forge for the first time as a school project and was wondering If there are any main differences or benefits to using a ribbon Burner vs a venturi burner or venturi vs ribbon.
The main things I want to find out is:
Does one typically burn hotter?
Does one run more efficient?
Any help on this would be amazing and please link how to's and plans as well. Thanks Ethan
7:52 pm
May 22, 2010
Hi Ethan,
I can tell you what I have learned, but please remember I am a hobbyist with only a short time at it. I have rebuilt both of the forges we (My Girlfriend and I) have, one is a ribbon burner and one a venturi.
I like them both for different reasons. A ribbon burner seems to get much hotter much quicker than a Venturi burner, but that could just be the way I have mine set up. The ribbon burner heats my material a lot more efficiently because the flames cover more area. You have to have electricity to run the Ribbon Burner model as it takes a blower. The venturi burner needs only Fuel (propane) and Air to run.
As far as efficiency of either burner? I really could not tell you which is better, I think it really depends on what it is you are trying to do with it ... ie, use the right setup for the right job?
I prefer my Ribbon burner setup but I tend to work a larger stock than my girlfriend does, she prefers the Venturi burner setup because it works the best for the smaller stock that she uses.
I think what you need to decide is what kind of work are you going to do with it. Once you determine that, it will be a little bit easier to decide on the type of burner you would like to work with.
Brad Roland :hot:
12:14 am
January 13, 2013
1:46 am
May 26, 2010
I think noise is a consideration, less with a ribbon burner with the right blower....for the size. I'm actually considering one myself, about 4X10", for the new furnace.
the only question I was going to play with, was the bonding of the castable to the air box,,
cast it in, or use a bonding agent?
Blacksmith?.....snap out of it!
7:26 pm
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
There is a wealth of information here:
http://blacksmith.org/forums/t.....bon+burner
Perhaps the information you seek is there.
Good luck,
Jeff
My son is the Blacksmith
7:16 pm
May 26, 2010
J Wilson;17338 wrote: There is a wealth of information here:
http://blacksmith.org/forums/t.....bon+burnerPerhaps the information you seek is there.
Good luck,
Jeff
Hi, thanks, yes I saw this. Also saw one where the air box had come away from the castable, and was wondering if there was a bonding agent suitable for heat, that might prevent leaks and or separation.
ill just try the castable as the seal for the first attempt, in case I'm over thinking things.
Blacksmith?.....snap out of it!
8:01 pm
NWBA Member
Board Member
March 18, 2011
Hey Ethan,
Your choice of burner is less important in determining potential heat and efficiency than your overall forge design. Lots of insulation is key to efficiency, just like your house. Not all refractory is the same and creating a balance between thermal mass and insulation is key. Well fitting doors are important as well to keep the heat in.
As for burner design, I run my small forge off a well tuned venturi, it will get nuclear white hot and never freeze a 100lb propane tank. One 100lb tank runs 40-80 hours depending on how hard I am running it.
Remember its is all about energy. All things equal, assuming total combustion, a given quantity of propane will produce the same number of BTUs. So the question becomes where is the heat going, into the air, heating your shop? your piece of metal? being stored in your forge refractory? You get the picture.
If you are building your own forge, buying a pre-made venturi burner is a good way to go. They are relatively cheap and can eliminate a lot of the guess work of trying to tune a burner system. I still am running a burner I bought from Art Anderson 12 years ago when I built my first forge. It has seen duty in several forges over the years, well worth the $100 or so dollars it cost.
Biggest key to building a hot, efficient forge is lots of insulation. Remember any Kao Wool type products must be totally encapsulated. At forge temperatures the Kao Wool forms crystabolite (not sure if that spelling is correct) whose particulates become airborne and are highly carcinogenic. I use as much Kao Wool as I can in my forges but make sure it is fully enclosed behind either metal or refractory.
Finally a ribbon burner can work quite well but just remember that there are a lot of variables and your first try might not work out that well, this goes for making your own venturi as well.
Silas
7:46 pm
May 26, 2010
3door, Inside will be 8"X8"X24", 3" of insulation, 2" of castable over 1" of ceramic fibre, doors the same.
needed a slightly bigger production box for hammers and longer things. I'm running a single burner box with a lot of waste area that I can't use, if one or two hammers are in, and one or two hammers is too slow a cycle for reheat, for production, when I'm in the mood.
.88 cubic feet, but it looked bigger than the math suggested. So was giving the ribbon burner a thought.
Efficiency to a degree, was considered, with insulation, tho when it was time for the gas consideration, then thrown out the window for purpose. I was looking at consumption verses btu with area, and future melting possibilities or uses, and sometimes my slow mode, could prove wasteful while something sucking around 6 or so kg of gas an hour was running.
i don't know how the temp control would work or controlling combined flows would work that well with a ribbon burner....where as gas solenoids via plc switching between less than full speed and "on" feed lines, on three venturi burners works quite well.
the main consideration for the ribbon burner was noise, I could stick 35 kg of something in, light in the early hours of morning, without the rocket sound annoying neighbours....so, that was the thinking anyway.
Blacksmith?.....snap out of it!
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