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Show me your ribbon burner fans!
March 26, 2013
1:41 am
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D_Evans
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My ribbon burner has started once more to 'POP', and it sounds like a 22 going off in your ear. Not conducive to easy blacksmithing.
I spent several hours today [having been forced to shut down the forge because of the gunshot sounds] on google and ribbon burners.
I found three others who had the same problem.
One person bought a high-output blower and replaced his squirrel-cage blower and the problem was gone.
One person sold the forge and passed the problem on to someone else.
One person put te ribbon burner forge in a corner and gave up.
Several other folks who has low heat problems solved them with bigger blowers.
Several mentioned they bought the blowers Tom suggested and ended up buying bigger ones.

If you are running a ribbon burner, and are getting full heat, and no gunshot noise ever, please post a pic of your blower and whatever data about it.

I love the forge but the sudden gunshot noises have got to go.

Thanks
Dave

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

March 26, 2013
2:47 am
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ironstein
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I have the smallest ribbon burner from pine ridge. I bought the large blower that Grant always spoke of, Got it at blacksmiths Depot. Runs good, although it takes a while to really get hot because i used a castable refractory. Sorry this is the only pic i've got right now.

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March 26, 2013
3:03 am
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D_Evans
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Will you tell me the info printed on the fan?
Thanks,
Dave

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

March 26, 2013
3:35 am
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Dave Hammer
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I have found that there are multiple factors that have to be considered when using ribbon burners. One is that the forge has to be a proper size for the ribbon burner. If the burner is too big for the forge, or there is not enough opening (doors to alleviate back pressure from the burner), it probably won't work. The second major issue is the blower (if this is a forced air burner).

One key to success with a ribbon burner IS to have enough air. The conventional wisdom would be.... if the fan outputs enough CFM, it should work. There are, however, two components that need to be sufficiently present for a blower to work with a ribbon burner. Lots of blowers will seemingly move enough volume, but volume is only one of the components. Acutually, a ribbon burner does not need a high volume blower. The blower primarily needs to be able to create and maintain air pressure when the air movement is severly restricted. MOST blowers will fail in that department when used with ribbon burners. The way to easily tell if a blower has a chance to work with a ribbon burner is to turn it on full blast and cover the output opening with your hand. If you put your hand over the opening very loosely, the fan will still move air out (and you will feel some air pressure). The looser you hold your hand over the opening, the more air will come through. If you close it off completely, the fan blades will just spin, churning the air in the chamber with the blades.

The next test is to cover the opening so very little air can come through (this simulates how a ribbon burner works). If you feel the fan vigorously still trying to force air out, it is creating and maintaining air pressure... if it does, it may work with a ribbon burner. Most blowers will not be trying to force air out if the passage is severly blocked. The blades will be spinning, but again, they will only be churning air in the chamber.

Why does there need to be pressure? A ribbon burner has a plenum. The plenum has an "air entry point" on one side, and multiple holes out another side through which the air/gas mixture goes to make the flames. Air needs to be "pumped" into that plenum with enough "maintained" pressure for the burner to work. That pressure keeps the air/gas mixture going out into the forge (not back firing) and thus promotes proper burner behavior.

The next question is "how much volume and pressure is needed"? The answer depends upon the design of the ribbon burner. If you have a commercial ribbon burner, it should have come with specifications. In this environment, pressure is measured in water-column inches. For example, if you buy a commercial ribbon burner, the specifications should tell you the range of water-column inches (pressure) the burner will need to work. The more pressure you have, the higher performance you will get (up to a point). Water-column inches are measured with a manometer. You can easily make one with a clear plastic hose (you have to put a fitting on your forge to accomodate its use). I found instructions on the internet to make one.

The blown ribbon burner I bought was from Pine Ridge. It was the smallest one they sell. Their website has a LOT of information about their burners, including pressure requirements for their burners. They sell some small blowers that they claim will work with their burners. They may work, but will not produce much performance. It takes well over the 2.5 inches of WC their best blower produces (I think it's the same blower Blacksmith Depot sells for $175). I don't think either business sells high performance blowers. I ran my forge at over 5 inches of WC pressure to get reasonable performance (it's going to depend upon the design of the burner).

I was not satisfied with the performance of my blown (yes there are ribbon burners that work with venturis) ribbon burner until I used a high-volume high-pressure blower. I also needed to use a "variable auto-transformer" (essentially a high amp dimmer switch) to control the speed (and thus pressure) of the blower.

If your burner is home-made, I would expect you need to experiment with the pressure to get the performance you want. I just kept cranking up the air and gas pressure (much like you would adjust an oxy/acet torch) till I got the performance I wanted.

I'm sure there are lots of commercial (very expensive) blowers out there that will work. I've used two. One is a Mighty VAC, model 275 (one of those very expensive ones if you buy it new), I bought at an auction for about 30 bucks. The second blower is one I bought at a flea market for $15. It is a blower that was used to blow up one of those things kids climb into and bounce around. I gave that blower to a friend, so I don't know the brand and model number.

The auto transformer I use is made by Staco Energy Products, Type 3PN1010... rated for 12 amps. Any product that will handle the amperage of the blower should work (check Harbor Freight for a speed controller).

Look for a blower that will pass the tests I described above and your blower problems will be over...

More notes.... I went back to using venturi burners. If I had a need for a LARGE forge to heat large masses of metal, I would be using a blown ribbon burner. If you have those needs, ribbon burners are great. Most of my forging is done in a very small forge and a blown ribbon burner is more than I need.

Grandkids and blacksmithing... Joy Joy Joy..............................YouTube Channel: djhammerd

March 28, 2013
2:20 am
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Dave Hammer
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D_Evans;17619 wrote: My ribbon burner has started once more to 'POP', and it sounds like a 22 going off in your ear. Not conducive to easy blacksmithing.

I love the forge but the sudden gunshot noises have got to go.

Thanks
Dave

Another thought.... It is likely you would benefit the most from a better blower, but how are your managing your propane? I have found that using a high pressure regulator (0-60, cranked all the way up) with a needle valve (ALCON JN2) to control volume (and thus pressure) right at the propane entry point works best for me (all forges). I use a gauge on the burner side of the needle valve. With the ribbon burner, I would start with just enough air pressure and propane to start the forge, then ramp it up (adjusting both in the same manner as adjusting an oxy/acet torch).

Also, be sure you have enough exhaust (doors open) so you don't have too much back pressure.

With the proper blower, and the way I manage propane, I was able to get a large (for me) forge (about a cubic foot of burn chamber) hot enough to forge weld in it (without extraneous noises) using Pine Ridge's smallest burner. I do have to tell you though, these fans are noisy.

Grandkids and blacksmithing... Joy Joy Joy..............................YouTube Channel: djhammerd

March 28, 2013
3:07 am
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D_Evans
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I have two blowers on my forge, one for the ribbon burner and another for the air dam [thanks to Bill Cottrell for the air dam info].

I decided to order the larger size for the burner and went out to the shop to get the specs.

I have no idea how or why but I had one of each size [the one's Grant had set up] on the forge.

And of course the smaller one was on the burner.

Got those swapped out yesterday, after fighting to get them reversed with the different size pipe connectors.

Only had a little time today so didn't get much of a test.

Shop time on Friday, should get a decent workout and see if the gunshots :bomb: are gone. You have no idea how quick and high you can jump unless you have it happen a few times :hot:

Yes I am running a needle valve and a high output regulator.

Will report back in a few days how the larger blower on the burner is working.

Thanks for all the input 🙂
Dave

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

April 18, 2013
3:27 am
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D_Evans
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Got the bigger blower installed and ran the forge a while. It got to welding heat just fine. Enjoyed a couple hours of use and then the gunshots came back. This always seems to happen after the first few hours of continuous use.

There is no leakage of air or gas. The burner stays cool regardless of how long it burns. I shut it down immediately after it pops- there is still no leakage or exterior heat.

I am going to pull the burner one more time and see it there is anything loose or rattling around inside, and clean the orifices.

Will then put it back together and see what there is to see.

If this doesn't do it I am done with ribbon burners.

May have the burner for sale at the conference...

Dave

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

April 18, 2013
3:47 am
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Larry L
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How big is the air feed tube? are you sure you can force enough air though the pipe?

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

April 18, 2013
11:45 am
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Dave Hammer
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How much propane is left in your tank? Is it showing signs of freezing when the popping occurs?

Do you have a pressure guage near the point of entry of the propane? Note the pressure when you have reached a welding heat (before popping). Then see what the pressure is when the popping occurs.

Has the popping EVER happened in the first couple minutes of operation?

You might try a different full tank of propane.

Is this a commercial burner? Which one? If it is, talk to the manufacturer. If it's not, talk to a manufacturer anyway.

Grandkids and blacksmithing... Joy Joy Joy..............................YouTube Channel: djhammerd

April 18, 2013
1:33 pm
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Steve McGrew
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Dave Hammer;17782 wrote: How much propane is left in your tank? Is it showing signs of freezing when the popping occurs?

Do you have a pressure guage near the point of entry of the propane? Note the pressure when you have reached a welding heat (before popping). Then see what the pressure is when the popping occurs.

Has the popping EVER happened in the first couple minutes of operation?

You might try a different full tank of propane.

Is this a commercial burner? Which one? If it is, talk to the manufacturer. If it's not, talk to a manufacturer anyway.

I have two ribbon burners, one home made a la Emmerling, and one from Pine Ridge. Both will start popping if I let them get too hot. At that point, changing air flow or gas pressure does not have any mitigating effect. My guess is that the refractory gets hot enough to ignite the air/gas mixture above the perforated refractory block. Next time I build a ribbon burner, it will have a refractory block about 8 inches thick.

April 18, 2013
5:29 pm
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Dave Hammer
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What size are the burners and how many cubic inches do the burn chambers have?

Grandkids and blacksmithing... Joy Joy Joy..............................YouTube Channel: djhammerd

April 18, 2013
10:13 pm
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Steve McGrew
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Dave Hammer;17785 wrote: What size are the burners and how many cubic inches do the burn chambers have?

One burner (home made) is 11" x 2" with three rows of holes, in a 720 cubic inch chamber with 3" of refractory cement insulation. I squeeze the chamber down to 360 cubic inches for forge welding.

The other burner (from Pine Ridge) is 6" x 4" with five rows of holes, in a very well insulated (5" of light firebrick) 650 cubic inch chamber. With front and back doors closed it gets plenty hot for forge welding.

Both of these start backfiring when the internal temperature gets uniformly high enough to hurt my eyes when I look in. (Naturally, at that temperature I use appropriate eyewear!)

The propane tank is 150 gallons, so I doubt that freezing is an issue. Also, it doesn't seem to matter whether I'm running just one forge or both forges.

April 18, 2013
11:09 pm
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Dave Hammer
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I'm no expert, but I did experiment a fair amount with ribbon burners before I got the 4x4" Pine Ridge burner to work to my satisfaction without issues. The forge I finally used had almost a cubic foot of burn chamber, and I used a blower (speed controlled with a variac) capable of very high pressures (well over the 5 inches of WC they claim is the upper limit for the burner I bought).

I also played with a small Joppa Glassworks (venturi driven) burner (2x2) and made a couple small ribbon burners, to be able to use smaller forges.

I would still recommend talking to Pine Ridge about the symptoms, but I suspect you would be told, for the temperatures you are driving your forge to, your burn chambers are too small. The back pressure from the burn chamber is (most likely) overcoming the pressure from your blower and superheated air is being pushed back into your burner, igniting the propane inside the burner plenum. I'm surprised your burners haven't blown apart. I would expect this is dangerous.

I still believe a blower that is capable of producing higher pressures (in the burner plenum) would overcome this problem.

I would also try, if you want to continue using your current forge, enlarging the openings to allow more dragon breath (vent out more heat). This would reduce the pressure in the forge and relieve the back pressure (to the burner) a little.

Grandkids and blacksmithing... Joy Joy Joy..............................YouTube Channel: djhammerd

April 18, 2013
11:27 pm
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Steve McGrew
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[QUOTE=Dave Hammer;17787
...
I would still recommend talking to Pine Ridge about the symptoms, but I suspect you would be told, for the temperatures you are driving your forge to, your burn chambers are too small. The back pressure from the burn chamber is (most likely) overcoming the pressure from your blower and superheated air is being pushed back into your burner, igniting the propane inside the burner plenum. I'm surprised your burners haven't blown apart. I would expect this is dangerous.

I still believe a blower that is capable of producing higher pressures (in the burner plenum) would overcome this problem.

I would also try, if you want to continue using your current forge, enlarging the openings to allow more dragon breath (vent out more heat). This would reduce the pressure in the forge and relieve the back pressure (to the burner) a little.

I'm sure you're right that a higher pressure blower is a good idea. I installed a higher CFM (but not higher pressure) blower and the forge got hotter faster, but it didn't stop the backfiring. If I make the refractory block taller, it will make the back pressure worse and might possibly cause worse backfiring because it is likely to reduce the flow velocity. I'm pretty sure the problem can be cured by increasing flow velocity at the orifices, which boils down to using a higher pressure blower.

April 21, 2013
11:06 pm
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Ken Albert
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I have a ribbon burner I made myself, following the John Emmerling instructions so generously provided in the Hot Iron News a few years ago. The fan is a 1200watt hair dryer from the thrift store. It has served me well and I just rebuilt it because I was upgrading the lining using Dave's video. Thanks for the great info, Dave. Before the lining upgrade, it got to welding temp, although I seldom need to forge weld. I have never experienced the popping problem, maybe because the volume of the forge is large, or the fire bricks that act as doors front and back, are loose enough to preclude back pressure. The refractory material, the "brick" part of the burner is 2 3/4 inches thick, but I can hold my hand over the burner(it is placed top. center of the forge, blows straight down) without feeling much heat. I wonder if your problem has anything to do with how close the fuel is introduced to the combustion area. A noisy fan or burner is enough irritation without it sounding like you're being shot at. I will be interested to hear the solution. Good luck.

April 22, 2013
1:05 am
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D_Evans
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I unbolted the burner from the forge body today, and pulled the blower.
It is a job unsealing the burner from the forge to get it off. I will work at this a little at a time, probably won't fool with it much until after the NWBA spring conference next weekend.

This forge is only open on one end. I built the forge so that it can be easily opened on the closed end. The wood ceiling in my shop is fairly low and the fire hazard would worry me with dragon breath from both ends.
I built an exhaust hood, but it isn't long enough to cover both ends. I was not expecting the forge to generate nearly as much heat as it does.

I usually close most of the single opening with bricks, leaving just enough room to get the work in and out. Sounds like this may be the problem- I never thought about the extra push from the fan that this creates. I am thinking hard about this and may need to open the other end and direct that heat up into the hood somehow.

I will continue working this problem and will get some pics of the setup posted here this week. I appreciate all the help and suggestions.

Dave

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

April 22, 2013
2:35 am
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Dave Hammer
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If it is little effort to put the blower back on, I would recommend not taking the burner off yet. Make the next test... just leaving more opening where you put the work in. If that doesn't solve the problem, open up the back just a little.

Grandkids and blacksmithing... Joy Joy Joy..............................YouTube Channel: djhammerd

November 28, 2013
1:41 pm
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John Emmerling
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I've been using ribbon burners for 15 yrs, and the only time it ever popped was in the beginning when I was trying to use it with a squirrel cage blower that did not provide adequate pressure. The blowers that GS used to sell will work. I have the med size and also a Centaur Forge blower plus several others that have been found at garage sales. The key is to run the blower at its max and control the volume with a gate valve. Having pressure is the key. Popping is usually an indication of gas ignition inside the burner and in my experience, a higher pressure blower controlled not with a variac, but a gate valve will most likely solve the problem.

At this time of year my forge runs all day long as it heats the shop more efficiently than the Reznor hang down heater.

Also, my forge is 18" long and is a half round with 3" of kaowool. The floor is about 9" wide. I used to bring in the heat from above, but have changed to the side as I didn't want the heat/air directly on the steel. The burner is mounted about 3" up from the forge floor.

I'm still using the original burner frame that I've recast several times. So, if you build one of these, keep your framework for the cast dam so you're not starting over. I get several years out of the cast refractory.

If I can be of assistance, feel free to contact me.

John Emmerling

http://www.gearhartironwerks.com

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