4:33 am
April 15, 2012
Hi, I went to the conference this past weekend and got really motivated to get going on this... I have just about everything i need to start putting together my first atmospheric forge. A friend at the boat yard is getting me a chunk of 10" square tube steel this week and I'm off and running. I am insulating with refractory cement- I'm assuming that i just pour the cement and rotate as it sets until I make it all the way around-or should i make an insert and 'mold it' in?
my question is this: before I mix and start casting the liner, i need to punch out two holes for the burners. when i pop those out after it sets, I will slide the stainless flare i have in to the burner hole- ?I'm wondering how far in to the hole does the stainless flare go below the 'level' of the outside of the tube?
?I was just going to cut out a wooden plug for the purpose- that work ok? the O.D. of the flare is about 1.25" I think, how tight should the refractory wall be to the flare? as tight as I can manage? (ps-i'll weld on a 1.5" sleeve above hte hole once the cement is set. that will hold the burner)
I'm relatively 'clear' on the burner, its mostly the 'getting it in to the forge body' that i'm shaky on.
I appreciate any thoughts. Im trying to do this right the first time- though that plan usually doesn't work out so well...
Thanks,
Jim
5:43 am
September 7, 2010
Hi Jim,
Just a thought on castable,It expands when heated(as with most things) I would tend to line the iner-surface of the tube with corrugated cardboard rescued from an old box it burns out later, make all cutouts before casting anything.
shuttering our holes with expanded polystyrene is a doddle and you "melt out" this with petrol(gasolene) after casting.
It is much easier to shutter a inner-core than to spin-cast. check with your refractory supplier some "castable " is meant to be mixed up like stiff porrige and tamped into place.
Good luck and have fun!
Ian
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