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11:56 pm
April 21, 2010
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I have had an idea about twisting cable up after seeing Mr Furrers you-tube of twisting square stock up. Why cant you do something similar with cable. And it makes me think of a small wood lathe, but I dont think you can control the speed on those but I know you can on larger metal lathes. Or Maybe...Larry have any spare parts that can be made to do something like this?
12:12 am
March 26, 2010
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If it were rigid enough a wood working one may do but the motor would have to be geared down A LOT. Woodworking machines tend to run at very high speeds compared to metalworking ones.
8:38 pm
August 5, 2010
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Im gonna have to try cable welding directly inside an induction coil, Bet I could weld yards of the stuff in an hour !!
12:40 am
March 18, 2010
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Hey John! That'd be fun to play with, wouldn't it? When welding in the induction, I like to keep the heat rather low so the heat can soak in good.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
2:16 am
Grant;2802 wrote: Hey John! That'd be fun to play with, wouldn't it? When welding in the induction, I like to keep the heat rather low so the heat can soak in good.
grant,
how long of a welding heat do you think one could get with say a 1 1/2" -2 " sq billet? how large does the induction forge need to be in terms of kw? What about flux on the coils?
je
2:20 am
April 21, 2010
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OK OK stop Hijacking my thread damnit 😛 But honestly not knowing induction welding but going on the color of the steel alone, as bright yellow as you can get it, without it going white and having a pubble of steel in the bottom of your forge or in your case a puddle all over your copper line and table top. As far as the thickness of the billet you are trying for it depends on the thickness of the cable you start with. You have to remember the loss to slag and hammering it out. And I did make regular damascus from bars before I started my attempts at Cable starting in July. But as of tonight I managed to git er dun...and now have my technique down.
4:19 am
April 21, 2010
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The more I was thought about the whole cable forge welding using the induction forge, it had me thinking about the flux. since we all know how flux eats the hell out of the brick in our forges its going to do the same with the copper tubing when it drips off the work.....I know there is the whole dry forge welding technique but I dunno....thoughts?
5:31 am
March 18, 2010
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The floor of a forge is hot and the flux is a caustic liquid. As the copper coil is cold (in fact there is water running through it) the flux simply "freezes" and falls off.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
6:12 am
April 21, 2010
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ahh ok very cool, it was just something that came up in thinking about it all..
9:18 pm
June 3, 2010
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Copper doesn't much care about caustics in any case.
If you want your forge floor to last longer under flux use a high phosphate or phosphate bonded refractory. High alumina is also a lot more resistant to hot caustics but not like high phosphate refractories. And that's no effin :poop:.
Frosty the Lucky.
7:18 pm
NWBA Member
March 22, 2010
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Bill Cottrell and I built a twister for doing high carbon damascus billets for gun barrels and other stuff. What I do know is that its takes a lot of torque. The final working machine used a 3 horse motor hooked to a 200 to 1 reducer and reduced again through a set of sprockets. Any high carbon or cable bars between 1"-1 1/2"will require a machine capable of twisting at least 3/4" mild steel barstock cold. We found anything less was a waste of time as the heat required was always around welding heat which in a bar of any length will readily dissipate before the bar is completely twisted up. I also set up a rail system in which my induction traveled down the bed while the machine twisted the bar. The induction heated 4" at a time, but only worked well when we pre-heated the bars in the forge and used the induction to maintain the heat where we wanted the twisting to occur.
Just some thought, I would post a pic but it was disassembled and scavenged for other projects.
John,
with a small billet around 1" square the small induction can effectively heat a 4"-6" piece, but honestly I still feel the forge works better for doing the basic major welds.
Tom
7:52 pm
March 22, 2010
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Paul what Tom is talking about is that thing you looked at in my yard
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
10:37 pm
April 21, 2010
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To add further to Tom's post what we were twisting up was 1 1/2" square titanium damascus bars. It all worked like a charm!
9:06 am
April 21, 2010
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Yes Thanks for that input Tom,Bill, Larry and John. I had to step away from the board for a few days, es I was looking at the tool sitting in Larrys yard and was thinking thats what it was used for even before larry told me. I was thinking about the machine angle for twisting because as this past week proved to me that no matter how hot I get it and how easy the twisting initially is, in the end my elbows ache like mad. Though rignt now as of Thurs afternoon my Little Giant is down due to electrical issues. I am having the local electrician come out and look at the power supply to see if thats the problem first before I look at the motor. Every thing urnd just fine and no grinding but when I turn the power on all I get is an EEEEEEEEEEEEEE noise and then nothing since it partially is tripping the breaker in the house. So I and my father are thinking its a bad or weak breaker before I look at the Motor itself.
John,
How slow does that threader you mentioned turn? And how large is the chuck on it expandable to? I found the size cable I need to be using and its 2 inch, and when i make blocks for layered damascus they can be around that size as well...
Paul
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