11:43 am
April 7, 2011
Penetrating Oils [INDENT][TABLE=class: cms_table] [TR] [TD]I received this in an e-mail today. I did Google "Machinist's Workshop MagT" and found the same information on several Machinist Forums. I don't know how reliable it is. I have also heard that anti-freeze works well.
Penetrating Oils
Penetrating Oils
Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting.
Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil"
for about 20% of the price.
Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best,
but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.
*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
This actually works well, power-steering fluid also works as well as trans fluid![/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
[/INDENT]
Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
669 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
423-628-6444
[EMAIL=waynecoe@highland.net]waynecoe@highland.net[/EMAIL]
http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com
4:21 pm
September 24, 2010
I've been using ATF/acetone for a few years now and it works well. The only caveat I see is that the acetone evaporates so quickly that I haven't found anything that makes an effective storage container. You can mix up 4 oz of solution and come back in a week to find 2 oz of ATF so I'd recommend only making what you need for the job at hand.
5:09 pm
April 7, 2011
Thanks HWooldridge, I had thought about that and was going to watch that. You sure saved me some trouble.
Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
669 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
423-628-6444
[EMAIL=waynecoe@highland.net]waynecoe@highland.net[/EMAIL]
http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com
6:34 am
August 23, 2010
3:47 am
NWBA Member
March 22, 2011
5:57 am
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
11:46 am
April 7, 2011
There have been posts that state that the acetone evaporates quickly if not tightly sealed (like it is sealed in an acetone can or/and only make up the amount need at that time or in a short time.
Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
669 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
423-628-6444
[EMAIL=waynecoe@highland.net]waynecoe@highland.net[/EMAIL]
http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com
4:12 pm
NWBA Member
August 7, 2010
The acetone has a very low viscosity so it will wick into tiny spaces. Gasoline and ATF also works well, 50/50. Both are flamable, keep a lid on it. The job of the acetone or gasoline is to try to cut some of the dirt/rust, the job of the ATF is to provide some lubricant when it does start to move.
Sometimes it works, sometimes it needs a little heat to expand the nut and break the rust free. The absolute is to be gentle!!!!!! If you get impatient and the nut siezes, it will break the stud. Now you have to drill and tap the stud out. There is a correct way to drill the stud and a way that has no end, DRILL A TINY PILOT HOLE FIRST AS CLOSE TO CENTER AS POSSIBLE!!!
NEVER USE AN EASY-OUT!!!! When the easy-out turns, it expands the inside which makes the thread tighter. WRONG ANSWER!!
Neil
As long as we are above our shoes, We know where we are.:happy:
10:51 pm
March 26, 2013
From my understanding the recipe of Gibbs penetrant is nearly paralel to the above mentioned. Also very similar to Kroil which is used by many gunsmiths... Good stuff for sure!!!
Not that there is any real difference, but laquer thinner is also used as an alternative. The acetone/thiner is just a solvent medium to deliver the ATF... once the ATF gets into the gap, the stuck bolt's a gravy train.
I personally swear by Gibbs though, not just as a penetrant, but as a long term rust inhibitor over bare metals... You can find it cheap at swap meets @ about $10 a can, and a can goes a long way. It shoots out in a foam/bubbly fluid-like medium than just creeps along over the surface, into nooks and crannies... I remember doing a quick spritz of the stuff on a 4" steel globe cap, and the little dime section area I sprayed at the top leached arround the rest of the steel ball an turned the rust into a bronze'ish finish. It's such a good product for FL weather. Only other thing comparable is CorrosionX, and from my experience that stuff gets ubber expensive...
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