5:11 am
NWBA Member
May 1, 2011
I have a 25 pound little giant trip hammer. It is new to me and has been rebuilt. I have questions about proper lubrication and safety. In my research I've seen suggestions to use bar oil and general purpose grease for lubrication. Some people suggest little giants are inherently dangerous without guards covering the front mechanism.
Lubrication
Rams slide surface lubrication: Chainsaw bar oil is commonly recommended on the web. I've seen some suggestions to use grease on the Rams slide to reduce run on after the treble is released. On the web I've seen suggestions to lubricate the clutch to prevent run-on after the treble is released. Does anyone have opinions on that practice? The clutch on my hammer has 2 pads that looks like quarter inch leather and they engage two thirds of the inner flywheel. My hammer does run on.
Pittman: on the web I've seen some Pittman with zirk fittings. My Pittman has just a whole for oil. Would it be better to install it zirk fitting for grease on the Pittman.
Babbitt bearings: the Babbitt bearings have cups for oil. I've been using bar oil but it seems to dribble down the side of the hammer. Does anyone have recommendations on oil viscosities or proper lubrication for Babbitt bearings without drenching the hammer in bar oil?
Safety:
Does anyone have thoughts on the need for building safety guards to cover the front mechanism of the little giant?
Does anyone have additional thoughts on the care and feeding of a little giant trip hammer?
5:50 am
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
6:33 am
NWBA Member
May 1, 2011
1:35 pm
January 18, 2011
If the hammer runs on (clutch bearing) and if oil flows freely out of the main bearings it seems to me the hammer wasn't thoroughly rebuilt. There are hacks who like to slap a coat of paint on a hammer, call it rebuilt and flip em'. Bearings aren't that hard to fix if this is the case.
No oil is BAD, bar and chain oil works good as do others, heck dirty old motor oil works fine for that matter.....Greasing the ram and guides is a pain to get it where it's needed......
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
5:05 pm
NWBA Member
August 16, 2010
4:52 am
June 10, 2010
Are those oil cups or are they the old grease cups? I changed mine out to grease serks SP? I use bar oil on every thing else that moves including the clutch leather. My hammer is a Jardine AKA a Canadian Giant an LG clone,there are 3 grease points on the main shaft, front and back babbit bearing and one at the end of the shaft for the clutch. My theory is if it is not dripping and spraying oil it is not lubricated. I lubricate everyday, I'm not saying what i do is right but I fold form copper sheet under the power hammer with hand held top tooling. Oil on the clutch gives you control.
2:34 am
September 24, 2010
The babbitt bearing caps typically will leak pretty fast. I put some waste cotton (real bolls, out of the field - but denim and wool both also work) into the top cups after pre-saturating with oil. This keeps dirt out of the bearing and allows the oil to seep in slowly rather than run out onto the floor. In fact, I use this practice on any plain bearing that needs a little oil while it's running.
Clutches benefit from a few drops of oil to prevent sticking and "run-on" as per your statement - it's worthwhile for that reason since wood to steel clutches tend to work more smoothly when oiled.
I use Vactra "way oil" on the slides and other moving parts - mostly because someone gave me a five gallon bucket - but it does work well in that application.
As everyone else said, these things run on oil. I have a friend with a 50 lb LG that he uses a few times a year and he doesn't like to oil it because he has a neat hobby shop and slinging oil is not his idea of fun. However, he also manages to call me every 5 years or so to come over to his place and help him figure out why the hammer is sluggish. Every time, it's been a lack of oil.
With regard to safety, I would definitely recommend a guard of some sort across the spring area. There are enough horror stories out there about broken springs that I would not want to take a chance over the long haul. I owned a couple of LG hammers over the years and nothing ever broke on them but I put guards on both anyway.
3:10 am
January 18, 2011
Charley Keller;15454 wrote:
Safety:
Does anyone have thoughts on the need for building safety guards to cover the front mechanism of the little giant?
Does anyone have additional thoughts on the care and feeding of a little giant trip hammer?
I posted this broken spring containment device made of radiator hose some time ago but it was a lousy picture, this one shows it better. It's on a friend's hammer and I think it's pretty clever.......
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
12:56 am
NWBA Member
July 19, 2011
6:17 am
NWBA Member
August 7, 2010
Good Morning,
Any hose is better than nothing. I prefer to use one wire, reinforced hose, 2 1/2" ID on mine.
Your focus is on your work, not often paying attention to what is flying around your face. We get one chance on the eyeball, we get two chances on our good looks, what we are born with and what we look like all beat up!!
Some people think that the safety guard gets in the way. The alternative is having visitors in the hospital.
Think forward!!
Neil
As long as we are above our shoes, We know where we are.:happy:
2:42 pm
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
Bruce Macmillan;15480 wrote: I posted this broken spring containment device made of radiator hose some time ago but it was a lousy picture, this one shows it better. It's on a friend's hammer and I think it's pretty clever.......
thats a good idea and simple!! should contain the spring well enuf to keep it from hurting you! good idea!
12:50 am
January 18, 2011
If you want an idiot proof guard this comes as close as any I've ever seen....lol
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
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