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Hydraulic press design question.
December 21, 2010
5:49 am
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Todd Miller
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So I took Tom Ferry's bowie making class at Dave Lisch's shop a couple of weeks ago. It was wonderful experience. I was at the stage of self teaching where I needed to really see it done and get help, Tom is a great teacher and Dave a great host. I used their hydraulic press and now I covet one. I picked up a 7 1/2 hp power unit on Craigslist and am looking at collecting parts. I bought Jim Bateson's book and he specifies a 5" X 8" cylinder. My question is there any benefit to a longer stroke (in hydraulics that is)? Are the things I might want to do, or tooling that would require something longer" ? Thanks Todd

December 21, 2010
6:50 am
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Neil Gustafson
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I don't know about your side of the line, but the best place to buy hydraulic stuff in Canada, is Princess Auto (Langley, Coquitlam, Kelowna, in B.C.). They have a 6" diameter, 8" stroke, press cylinder.

Hydraulics isn't magic, it is all math. Diameter surface area = pi.R2 X hydraulic pressure = pressure. 3.1416 x 3x3 = 28.274 sq/in x 3000 psi = 84823.2 lbs/sq in. yes that is 42 tons. At 5000 psi = 141370 lbs/sq in, yes 70 tons. If you take a press tool that has less than 1 sq/in of contact surface, it multiplies again. 1/2 sq/in contact area, doubles the psi (42 tons = 84 tons or 70 tons = 140 tons psi).

If you use a two stage pump, you get the advantage of low pressure/high volume to move the ram and high pressure/low volume for the grunt. This pump is used in Log-Splitters, it works wonderful for a working press with heat. Not wasting heat, waiting for motion.

If you don't keep your press tool captive and straight you have the capability of a bullet, uncontrolled. Catastrophic results to a persons anatomy/life.

Don't be afraid of the machine, build in safety!!!!!!! If you forget for a split second, you are done!!!!

If you have a question, ask Paul Thorne (Anacortes). He has built a few and has taught workshops using Hydraulic Press'.

As long as we are above our shoes, We know where we are.:happy:

December 21, 2010
4:36 pm
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Larry L
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Unless you are squishing long sections 8" of stroke is plenty... I have cylinders available like the one on Daves press ( I sold him the pump and cylinder for the schools press) for $250.. I think they are 7" bore and around 12" stoke..

if your set into your 7.5HP pump I would check to see what the flow/pressure is. If its a high pressure low volume pump I would go for a 4"-5" bore, if its a medium pressure medium flow pump you might get away with 6"... if its low pressure (anything under 1000PSI) you could go bigger yet.... if its under 700PSI id find a new pump.. 7.5HP at 500 psi would move quite a bit of oil but not have much umph...

What kind of frame are you going to build? a I beam?

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

December 21, 2010
4:52 pm
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Steve H
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Todd- hopefully you picked up that one on the Seattle CL for the stupid price of 150$?~! I know- I almost was gonna go for it but I'm pretty well looking for more power and speed than the 10HP I currently have. That pump should give you the pressure I'm sure, but the flow should be checked so you're not disappointed. Surplus Center has a handy guide for $1.50 that tells you how to estimate flow based on the size of the pump or you can wait til you get it all hooked up and time your cylinder extension/retraction. Like Neil says- you don't want to be waiting there all day while your metal cools.

That's what blows me away with all the guys building 'forging presses' with enerpac pumps. Yeah, you can develop 100 tons but you'll be cold forging by the time it gets to the work~:unsure:

On your original question- I'd be looking at a 10 or 12" stroke cylinder. It was the same thing when everybody was building Kinyon air hammers ten years ago when 'the book' said use a ten in. cylinder. I went with a 14" and don't regret for a minute building in that extra stroke. So your hammer or press frame is a little taller. With tools, swages and the bending dies you'll inevtiably make, you will eat up ALOT of stroke in a hurry that you can't get back if you didn't leave enough room in the first place. On my 400$ H-frame press, the thing came with a 6" stroke so I constantly have to block up the bed to get in the working range. Some presses have moving beds. Given the choice between that or having a longer stroke- which is easier?

I really do like Batson's double angle H-frame in the new edition of his book. I was gearing up to build one based on that design until I sat and stared long at hard at the junk forklift right outside my shop. The Froklift mast is a perfect H-frame complete with a rolling carraige waiting to happen. Stay tuned:)

They only remember you when you SCREW UP~!!!

December 21, 2010
4:55 pm
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Steve H
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OK- Monster beat me to it!
What's the spec on your cylinders for sale Larry?

They only remember you when you SCREW UP~!!!

December 21, 2010
5:14 pm
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Larry L
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They are my Dad's actually They are new surplus tilt cylinders for a front end loader... I think they are 7" bore but might be 6 3/4... eye to eye with 1" ports They are in Idaho but I have a friend down there over Christmas so I think I could have one or two brought back...

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Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

December 21, 2010
5:16 pm
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Tom Ferry
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Todd,
It was a pleasure having you in class.
For the press I would stay away from the two stage pumps. Hydraulic presses are not like power hammers where the stroke starts at the top, so the low pressure high speed side of two stage pumps is irrelevant because you can set the ram height where you need it before you begin to squish something. Generally if your steel is in the correct forging temperature the system will very seldom generate over 1000 PSI. However the thinner your material the more tonnage or PSI you will need because of the faster cooling rate. A 7 1/2 horse motor should be able to handle a 7 GPM pump and generate around 2250 PSI with no problem. This will also will more than enough speed with a 5" cylinder. I also prefer 5" x 12" cylinders but my current one is a 6" x 8" because I got a great deal on it. As I primarily only do Damascus and knife work under mine it works fine but sometimes its tight.

Tom

December 21, 2010
5:32 pm
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Steve H
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For 250$ ea, Larry, Really?! I'll take two.

They only remember you when you SCREW UP~!!!

December 21, 2010
6:20 pm
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Eric Sprado
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What is the book you guys are referring to? My left arm(I'm a lefty) is wearing out and I need to learn something about hydraulic stuff. I know NOTHING and would like to build,or buy, a little unit to skwoosh stuff like drawer pulls etc....

December 21, 2010
7:07 pm
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Steve H
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The 'book' we refer to is "How to build a hydraulic forging press" by Dr. Jim Batson, a retired rocket scientist from Alabama. It can be hard to get a hold of. On iforge they have two dead links and one that I haven't tried in too long: [EMAIL=larbooks@impulse.net]larbooks@impulse.net[/EMAIL]

norm has lots of BS books.

Good point on not needing the two stage, Tom. Some people have had no problems running the log splitter pumps for 15 years without fail. I blew one up in five minutes because I had a few too many pounds of thrust on the lovejoy coupler. Totally PO'd me after spending weeks setting up the pump/tank . I do think the single stage pumps are more robust. I haven't tried the piston or vane pumps yet but I could be convinced. Supposedly they can be alot quieter- something gear pumps don't share.

They only remember you when you SCREW UP~!!!

December 21, 2010
7:55 pm
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Todd Miller
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Larry, I would take one of those cylinders if you can get them to this side of the mountains. That sounds good. I am making a C frame style with an I beam. I have to go check the pump on my powerunit. I am not sure what size it is, I know it is single stage and Tom's point about getting it ready before squishing makes a lot of sense and avoiding a two stage pump. That is what I do with my air over hydraulic mini press. The book I got is James Batesmans from Don Fogg. I never seem to build anything exactly like the plans but it is a good start- Todd

December 22, 2010
1:23 am
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Bill Cottrell
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Steve you are right about gear pumps. Mine is buried in the hydraulic tank surrounded by fluid, then set outside the building and plumbed to the press and the darn thing still drives me crazy . One of those high pitched whines that make ya want to pull your hair out. BUT - when I put the muffs on it don't matter any more.

My press has the same cylinder on it that Tom's press does and there have been times I wish it did have more stroke. But it ain't broke and I ain't fixin it. My pump is a two stage and a little slower than Tom's is, but mine keeps on pushin after his quits too. We found that out with titanium.

Yeah - a lot of force involved here folks - engage brain before using.

December 22, 2010
5:44 am
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Todd Miller
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If anyone wants Jim Batesmans hydraulic press book go to http://www.dfoggknives.com/index.htm and hit the feedback link to Don Fogg's email. The book is $35.00 and came priority mail in a few days. Todd

December 22, 2010
5:52 am
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Larry L
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I'll talk to my Dad and the fellow going over.... I think I can get a few brought back

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

December 22, 2010
7:26 am
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Eric Sprado
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Okay: This is like pulling teeth here... WHAT is the NAME of Jim Bateman's book so I can look it up on my book sites? Not having any luck at the aforementioned knife site.
thanks, Eric S.

December 22, 2010
1:43 pm
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JNewman
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You mean this book?

December 22, 2010
1:44 pm
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JNewman
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Jim BATSON' s book?

December 22, 2010
1:44 pm
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JNewman
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The one about building a hydraulic press?

December 22, 2010
1:45 pm
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JNewman
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The one Don Fogg sells?

December 22, 2010
1:46 pm
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JNewman
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Ok that's the one you are looking for.

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