9:11 pm
May 30, 2010
Well,
I finally had the time to tackle the installation of my Nazel 4B. It took me 3 weeks beginning to end to get the two foundations dug, constructed and poured. Let me tell you that first of if you should be fool hardy enough to take on a big hammer....Plan to literally throw money into that hole you just dug 🙂
Anyways it is now completed and I thought I would post a few pictures of the foundation being installed. I think looking back I learned more about what not to do in the future than what to do....such is life.
I had a tremendous amount of help and guidance from Dave Thompson, Joe Elliot, John Emmerling and Arnon. Thanks all very much for your help and patience.
Thanks,
Ken
Stumptown Forge
9:13 pm
March 22, 2010
9:19 pm
November 8, 2010
9:22 pm
May 30, 2010
9:28 pm
May 30, 2010
10:48 pm
November 8, 2010
10:51 pm
July 10, 2010
10:54 pm
May 13, 2010
Looking good. You still have some money pouring to go. When I was installing my hammer every time I turned around I was spending another couple hundred bucks on something, above and beyond the big costs of digging the hole, filling it with concrete, buying a new motor and moving the hammer. What is the second hammer?
I don't think you will regret the extra concrete. I planned on going an extra foot deep to 6' for my hammer but I hit ground water at 5'6" and didn't want to risk sides caving in with the water.
4:29 am
March 22, 2010
4:37 am
May 30, 2010
4:47 am
March 22, 2010
No Ken I am talking about what looks like a shop built hammer in the 4B pic...
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
7:05 pm
May 30, 2010
4:46 pm
May 27, 2010
Looks good, Ken. For those who haven't done this before I'll point out the all-threads coming out of the pipe with the duct tape wrapped around it. If you did this the way I think you did, there's a hex nut welded to the bottom of the pipe with a soda or beer can taped over it. This gives room for the all-thread to pass through the nut and stops the concrete from entering the bottom of the pipe. Once the concrete cures you can remove the all-threads and "simply" slide the hammer in place with out lifting it. Once in position the all-threads can drop through the hammer foundation holes, into the pipe and screwed into the nuts. Now washers and nuts can be added on top of the all-thread and tightened to hold the hammer in place. I still have more gap than I like between the holes in the hammer's foundation and the all-thread so I drive some rubber material, like the shock absorbing rubber pads that I use under the anvil on the hammer. I put that there to stop the concrete surface from cracking. I only have a Nazel 1B, but the same system works.
Randy McDaniel
http://www.drgnfly4g.com
"We do not quit playing because we grow old, we grow old because we quit playing." Oliver Wendell Holmes
4:52 pm
March 18, 2010
I agree with making provision for replacing bolts when and if they break, but in the case of a two-piece hammer like this 4-B you can't just slide the hammer in place. The anvil is placed in the pocket first and then the entire hammer must be lifted over the anvil and set in place. Another reason why people like the smaller one piece hammers.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
4:55 pm
March 18, 2010
Stumptown Forge;6276 wrote: That board is an idea I got from Ray Carpenter for using magnets to keep my Fly Press dies organized.
With scale and grinding swarf and such, I find magnets tend to become wooly-buggers pretty fast.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
5:33 pm
May 13, 2010
While nuts at the bottom of the hole is certainly much better than bolts cast into the concrete, I think the method Massey recommends in their foundation plans is even better although a little more work. Rather than a nut at the bottom of the hole there is a plate with a rectangular hole with a box under that to create a hole. The anchor bolts are a t bolt with a square section under the head like on a carriage bolt. If the bolt ever breaks there is no need to unthread it from a nut it just has to be turned 90degrees and then pulled out. The disadvantage is the hammer will have to be moved to change a bolt but the thought of using a 4' long easy out is a little scary.
5:41 pm
May 27, 2010
I first learned this process from an ABANA Anvil's Ring back in the 80's where they were installing a 3-B. I agree with the separate anvil being positioned, but there are ways of leaving the anvil "attached" to the hammer, like with wooden wedges and straping, and then moving the whole unit over the foundation and then tweaking the anvil's position. BTW my Nazel is a two piece.
Randy McDaniel
http://www.drgnfly4g.com
"We do not quit playing because we grow old, we grow old because we quit playing." Oliver Wendell Holmes
6:03 pm
March 18, 2010
With the later model Nazel, the anvil has more than just a flange on the bottom and sticks down about two feet. Starts getting more dangerous than the alternatives. Assembled, we're talking 18,000 pounds jacked up two feet and just "sliding"? With the right equipment it can be set in an hour. With the anvil sitting on the floor, you'd have to lift it higher than you would assembling it on the foundation. Never seen one shipped or arrived assembled. "Sliding" into place certainly makes sense with a one-piece hammer.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
6:18 pm
May 27, 2010
Thanks! I learn something every day! Glad to see all of the response. :dance:
Randy McDaniel
http://www.drgnfly4g.com
"We do not quit playing because we grow old, we grow old because we quit playing." Oliver Wendell Holmes
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