Nazel 4B Install | Page 2 | Power Hammers and Presses | Forum

So you have a 1-B? That's pretty cool. Probably the most sought-after Nazel there is. Funny how many 1-B's I've seen that were two-piece.

I'm no expert on the foundations, but I put (based upon Ralph Sproul's recommendation) clear hard maple (2" flat boards) under my 3B anvil.

We tend to use a hardwood called 'Iroko' Its expensive, but not excessive (its used a lot by joiners for doors / window frames etc). Ive put hammers in, and removed them 10 years later and the timber has held up well.

You need to make sure that the bedplate of the hammer the timber, and concrete are well bedded together before you torque the bolts down. Its suprisingly easy to break a cast iron basplate if you load it up unevenly, then start hammering!

edit, just re-read that you need the timber to put under the anvil.... I was talking about between the baseplate of the hammer and the concrete inertia block.

sorry, I ramble a bit! - ill try again....

underneath the hammers anvil block we usually put a fabreeka (type) mat, this is essentially a piece of rubber 1/2" thick for your size of hammer (guessing about 600lbs?). The mat is 32ply reinforced with fabric. It isolates very low frequency, and protects your concrete.

The anvil mats are scary expensive. As an alternative you can put timber directly underneath your anvil block. This is the 'old' way, but works well. Probably 4 or 5" of well bedded timber will replace the 1/2" thick rubber anvil mat.

Underneath the bedplate of your hammer, between hammer and concrete inertia block, you should put 1" thick timber. This is what I was going on about in my previous post!

Any questions ask away 🙂

The anvil mat (or timbers under the base of the anvil) prevent the anvil block damaging the concrete inertia block.

The timbers between the bedplate of the hammer, and the concrete inertia block, are there to take out any variations between the hammers baseplate and the concrete (you can plane timbers to bed it all much easier than you can grind the concrete).

The timbers underneath the bedplate also take the shock out of the bedplate 'hammering' against the concrete when the machine is running. When the hammer strikes a blow the whole frame lifts, stretching the hold down bolts momentarily (hence the bolts being 6' long for elasticity, not resined in studs). Every action has an equal and opposite one, and all that!

Theres a bit more going on with a foundation than you might think!

The current batch of new '1 piece' hammers work just fine with no foundation, sometimes not even bolted down! course you might get a 'bit more' with them on a solid foundation.

Fact is its spendy, and a PITA putting in a 2 piece, which is why I sell so many imported 1 piece hammers, even though 'bang for the buck' old hammers are much cheaper, untill you install them 😀

I could have any hammer I wanted for my bladesmithing, yet I do 90% of my work on a 1 piece Anyang 33# or 55# (usually a 33#, coz as soon as I get a 55 setup I sell it!) Ive only got 'my' 33lb'er coz ive painted it with pine effect paint so my dad cant flog it !

I will put in a Massey 2 cwt or 3 cwt for myself this year..... or perhaps not! ive put in enough hammers to be put off installing one for myself :cold:

Just get you a few hundred pounds of lead , build a steel form, melt it and pour it in, self leveling 😉

Stump,
If you have a 7" or 9" grinder buy a diamond wheel (segmented cup wheel) for it and go to town, Maybe $75, they grind fast and it is easy.
Rob