4:19 am
November 8, 2010
6:01 am
March 22, 2010
John Larson is the guy.... Maybe he will speak up?
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
6:53 am
November 8, 2010
7:04 am
March 22, 2010
If you had specific questions i would send John a PM, he is a member of this forum... He really is the go to guy and I think he would be more than happy to point you to what ever info you need. I know he has said much on the subject on this and other forums, just not sure now to get you to that info..
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
2:30 pm
November 8, 2010
3:06 pm
May 13, 2010
You do not want a cushion on the bottom of the cylinder because it will reduce the power of the hammer the hammer dies should strike before the cylinder bottoms out. A cushion in the top of the cylinder is a good idea to prevent the cylinder slamming into the top. However a cushion is not enough to stop the cylinder slamming if you set your pilot valves too high, a longer cylinder helps with preventing that.
2:58 am
August 2, 2010
Jim B, On my shop built air hammer I use a cylinder without cushioning in either direction. It's stroke is just larger than the guide mechanism will allow it to travel. I do have a flexible collar mounted on the rod cylinder which acts as a cushioning agent on the upstroke. When the hammer is run full out that bumper gets some real use. Mine is an old Porsche suspension part (free- I'm cheap) but you could easily get a polyurethane die spring that would just fit over your rod diameter to do the same job. No cushions let's you use a less expensive cylinder with a little less restriction than a cushion type. Let me know if you want a photo. Steve G
3:26 am
November 8, 2010
Thanks for the replies everybody.
Starting to get a better idea of what I'm going to need. I'm interested in a hammer similar to something like this. Seems like it would be a fairly snappy hammer with the smaller cylinder.
Steve G: If you happen to get a photo up one of these days that would be awesome, but don't sweat it 🙂
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6:24 am
March 22, 2010
I dont mean to be rude, but what good is it? I mean if you where planshing cold formed sheet metal I could see the use of a fast, light hammer such as that but for blacksmith work it just seems useless?... (sorry)
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
3:16 pm
NWBA Member
November 8, 2010
3:54 pm
March 22, 2010
I guess I shouldn't say useless... My thoughts are more that it would take exactly the same amount of work to build a 50-100lb hammer so I dont understand why you would build a 10-20lb hammer... I have seen that hammer in person and to me it seemed like a very cute little toy
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
12:28 am
November 8, 2010
Well I was going to re-size the photo so it would hit hard...Duh! 😉
The first time I saw a 'bench top' hammer one of Maurice Ellis'. They were pretty cute.
The one I'm thinking about building would be larger with a larger anvil. How large will depend on what I have on hand. Might just go with a Kinyon style with an air compressor upgrade or even a mechanical.
Never really knew much about the cylinders or what I would need to look for for ANY air hammer. 🙂
Never claimed to know exactly what I was doing :playfull:
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12:50 am
November 8, 2010
1:47 am
September 10, 2010
2:46 am
November 8, 2010
3:01 am
August 2, 2010
Jim B, Here's a pic of the cushion I was talking about. My hammer's an ugly thing but it works beautifully for a bunch of old recycled scrap ( I think so anyway). If you look just above the ram and just below the pilot valve you will see that there is a brownish rubbery looking thing in place on the end of the piston rod. When the hammer is run hard the bumper will compress against the cylinder mount providing a mechanical cushion in lieu of a pneumatic one. A few of the posters to the forum have run this hammer and know first hand that this simple method works.
One problem I see with any of the "table top" hammers is that you really don't seem to be able to get a sufficient amount of anvil mass under the ram in the little bit of space you have available. When you look at the sheet metal planishing hammers or a pullmax type machine you are not looking at the same type of operation as a typical forging hammer. Our "forging" hammers are concerned with putting the energy of the blow deep into a mass of metal while a sheet metal forming hammer is concerned with displacing a significantly less massive bit of material with little depth and can use a far less massive anvil to form rather than to forge the material. Even a very good small or light weight forging hammer will only move an outer "skin" when it reaches outside it's capacity; a hammer with too little anvil mass will do that most all the time. My advice would be to build a Kinyon style with simple but high flowing control valves and start forging with it. If you want I have a couple of build notes in pdf format you might find helpful- or not. Steve G
5:47 pm
November 8, 2010
I'm not planning on building a table top hammer. I'm interested in the action of that hammer I posted.
It may not be a 100# monster, but it'd probably come in around 30-50lbs. I know bigger is better, but at the same time I know I have to build it and move it by myself and despite my awesome Greek god-like physique I can only move so much 😉
Just have to wait and see 🙂
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5:53 pm
March 22, 2010
Ok fair enough, I wouldn't want to anger a "god like" muscle bound freak like yourself... Have you looked at the New Kiynon hammer? its much like this
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
1:57 am
November 8, 2010
Larry L;7227 wrote: I wouldn't want to anger a "god like" muscle bound freak
I've also been told I'm 10lbs of BS in a 5lb bag 😉
I am not really familiar with the new hammers though I was planning getting the plans when I re-up with ABANA next month. Ralph Sproul has a very comprehensive set of plans that I'm interested in as well.
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