Axe steel | Problem Solving | Forum

Most of the time when making a wrapped eye belt axe or a welded hammer poll axe I use mild steel for the body of the axe and forge weld in a higher carbon bit. The bit being usually from an old farriers rasp. If I remember right, I've also used and seen used old files and leaf springs. Most leaf springs being 5160. Files and rasps being a variety. If there is a problem welding the mild to itself I'd use/recommend using a glut made from an old hacksaw blade. (A mono metal blade not a bi steel one.) The mentoring center demo for July will be Wade Seider doing a hammer poll belt axe.

There are many options when making an axe. Different welds such as welded polls, like some viking axes, multi layered hammer poll axes, punched and drifted eye axes. Mono steel and different blade welds. I preferred for myself welding into a cleft a higher carbon bit on the blade. There were some old axes where the bit was welded on one side or the other and some where it was folded around. The fold around won't last as long for a life as sooner or later you get to mild steel or iron center.

5160 is one of the steels that I believe people have problems forge welding to itself if you are making a wrapped and welded axe. What size stock do you have? What style axe are you aiming for?

I use 3/16 by 1 1/2 or 2 mild steel for the body of the blade.  This is for a fold and weld tomahawk.  I prefer to use an old file for the blade which is cleft welded.  I like a harder edge for a tomahawk than I do for an ax.  Ax blades take a lot more abuse and need to be tougher and still hold an edge.  5160 works well for this.

I have also used truck torsion bars for both tomahawks and axes.  I like a poled tomahawk for camping and brush-craft uses, but I do't think the edge gets as hard as with a file insert.  All that means is you need to touch up the edge more often.  It still gets plenty hard.  The up side is that the blade is uni body with no welding.  Just more forge work.  A piece of flat spring works very well when cleft welded but needs to be forged down to 3/16 or thinner.  I feel that the spring material is too thick as is.  I will forge a wedge that is almost sharp and tap it in real well into the bottom of the cleft.  This will eliminate a cold shut and give a full weld.

Good luck and have fun