5:16 pm
January 11, 2012
I have taken several blacksmith courses and been playing at it intermittently for several years. In several courses they discuss using a wood mallet to avoid maring a surface.
Has as anyone textured one side of a flat, turn it over and place it on a sheet of copper to protect the textured side, and then texture he opposite side?
6:08 pm
NWBA Member
December 27, 2014
No, I've never heard of that; the copper would probably mark it up at least a little. The only thing I can think of is making a texturing swage with, as an example, a leaf in it, then putting the metal on the swage and pretty much texturing both sides at once. That's conceivable with other projects, but I don't know what you're thinking of.
Since I'm a relatively new smith, perhaps others might be able to help more than I.
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6:32 pm
NWBA Member
July 28, 2010
3:51 am
January 11, 2012
11:52 am
NWBA Member
July 22, 2010
might be helpful to know what stock you are texturing, size of power hammer or hand texturing, how deep the texture is {does it deform the stock when you texture the first side (oblong, etc.)?}.
And lastly , reason for texturing both sides, how will it be used in your project?
We usually texture 2 sides under a top+bottom tool setup under the hammer. Dad liked to make little holders around the bottom Dies to hold the tools steady and switch out for other textures.
Your idea with the copper sheet is interesting(on the 2x4) usually under a hammer that becomes kindling pretty quick, unless very light blows. This approach might lighten the texture on the new side.
12:59 pm
January 11, 2012
Donk- At present I don't have a specific project in mind. I have made leafs that I wanted to vein on both sides but the pattern was wrecked on the first side trying the second side.
I am talking about hand hammering. I think the only way to do it on a power hammer would be with the top and bottom tools you describe. The thing about those is it is a set pattern over a small area. Doing it freehand would allow you to vary the pattern over any area.
I have looked at a work on the net and most texturing seemed to be on one side. I was wondering if someone has come up with a way to do both sides.
11:19 am
NWBA Member
July 22, 2010
actually then your idea with the copper should be a good one.
The way we do it on leaves is to use the burned in cup on your anvil stump to shape the leaf, just stick the hot leaf on the stump and burn in the side you already textured while you are texturing back side, (one side of your stump may get multiple burn sites). My dad even made a 4 by 6 stump standing up on end just for doing this kind of work so he could move it away from the anvil and use that. He made one for cold work and one for hot, since hot one gets charred up.
I find that you can texture each side, then move into the cupping work is the best approach. Top of your stump will get charred. Or you could try it on a 4 x 4 chunk for similar effect.
This approach should work up to 1/4" thick if hot work. Thinner stock like 1/16" sheet or so for cold work.
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