8:50 pm
May 13, 2013
I have been reading a lot of information on blacksmithing and finally want to get my hands dirty.
Not having any resources I went to craigs list to find an anvil and seem to find an older 62 pound anvil for what seems to be cheap. Is there anything in particular I should look out for? Or stay away from anything in particular?
Guess I'm just looking for general tips so I dont get the bad end of the deal
Please let me know
Thank you much
Joe
4:16 am
NWBA Member
June 8, 2010
Hey Joe:
Glad you asked... If the anvil is cast steel or cast iron, you don't want it... The best test of an anvil is to take a hammer and very lightly swing it to hit the face of the anvil... If the hammer doesn't bounce back at least half the distance that you dropped it from, you don't want that anvil... It's called a dead anvil... A live anvil will give you a rebound almost as high as where you started... Good luck with it and be sure to make it to the next hammer-in at Longview, Wa. the 4th Saturday of this month....
Lynn
4:26 am
March 26, 2013
There are few characteristics of good anvils out there;
The qualities of an anvil are pretty universal.
1. Visually inspect to make sure it's not an ASO; google ASO (anvil shaped object)
2. Visually inspect it's method of manufacture; wrought iron with tool steel plate, cast iron with tool steel top, forged steel top half arc-welded to wrought iron base, cast steel, forged steel...
3. Visual inspection of condition; paint covers up a lot... Beware of the painted lady!!!
- How are the edges are they square and sharp?
- Are there any noticeable cracks in the body of the anvil? (check the heel, horn, and hardy hole for stress cracks)
- Is the top plate all there?
- Is the top plate level or does it have a con-caved sway?
- How thick is the top plate?
- Are there casting inclusions? How severe?
- Was it repaired? If so, Was the repair done correctly?
4. Rebound; (rebound/bounce test); take a light hammer with you, or a ball bearing for best measure. Don't strike, drop the hammer or ball bearing as not to apply any other momentum except gravity, across the anvil face... If it bounces back, throughout the entirety of the face, chances are the rebound is good. Use the ball bearing and drop it from 10" if its return bounce comes back 8" you have 80% rebound, if it's 5" its at 50% (okay)...
- This is a rebound test where I get 90%+;
5. Ring: the rebound testing above also accomplishes a chance to test "ring", but understand that not all anvil's ring (Cast Iron w/ tool steel plate).
- If theres a clunking sound with decent rebound 60% +, the chances are you have a cast iron anvil with a tool steel top, which is what Fisher anvils are comprised of- example;
- If there is a dull thud on what you presume to be a wrought iron or cast steel anvil and rebound is lacking, there is a significant chance that it might have lost its temper in a shop fire.
- If you get a shrill and tight ring in one area, and while moving along the face hear a buzzing or vibrating pitch there's a good chance that the top plate is separating in that area.
There are several videos and webpages devoted to what to look for when buying an anvil. understand them literally and in practice. If you have questions as to what they mean by "insert jargon here", ask the forum; I've been there and scratched my head before, there's no such thing as a stupid question, just stupid people...
Congrats on your first real anvil, it's a really enjoyable experience, and quite an amazing tool.
4:37 am
March 26, 2013
Lynn Gledhill;17982 wrote: Hey Joe:
Glad you asked... If the anvil is cast steel or cast iron, you don't want it...
Cast Steel anvils are Top quality; Soderfors, Kohlswa, West, Columbia, Nimba, Rhino, Refflinghaus, Rathole, etc..
I'm not an expert, nor am I arguing against your advice; I'm just curious on why you feel cast steel anvils are undesirable?
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