4:08 am
NWBA Member
June 8, 2010
Hey all:
I need to make a bunch of stuff, mostly fireplace tools... Most of the handles require forge welding to get them done... My problem is I can't seem to weld in the forge I have... I modeled it after the forges that Daryl Nelson has... Should be able to weld... However, I will be demonstrating at the Lane County Fair for 5 days, in less than two weeks... Lot's of stuff to do including my day job as a farrier.... I want to build fireplace tools, i.e. pokers, shovels, etc... The handles I want to make need to be forged after welding... Do you know of a rod for an ac stick welder that is forgeable?? If I could just stick weld the things together and then forge them, it would save me a great deal of time. And as we all know time is money!!! Thanks for your thoughts!!!
4:59 am
March 1, 2011
12:13 am
April 21, 2010
5:06 am
NWBA Member
July 19, 2011
Lynn,
Is your welding machine AC or DC? If DC use 6010 3/32 dia. If AC use 6013 same dia.
If you have DC and 6013 use it. Any AC rod runs better on DC. Start out at about 50 amps with this size rod.
I like 7018 but you don't need the strength and you have to use a much higher amprege, which makes welding 1/4 to 3/4 round and square messy. Grind ends to a short taper and flat ends about 1/3 the size of the stock. Build up the weld on all sides plus some. Get good penatration through the center. Forge at yellow heat for a short time. Stick welds of any kind do not like to be forged. If you already know this stuff, maybe it will help someone else.
Have fun and be safe. Wish I was with you.
Later:dance:
5:10 am
July 15, 2012
I'd weld it with 6011 it is a quick freeze rod with light flux deposit. Wire brush all the flux off before forging. 6011 welding rod is more forgiving than the low hydrogen rods such as 7018, 7014, when it comes to rust, paint etc. If you run it with a short arc length you'll get less porosity.
Hope this helps
Larry
Try not to spend $.10 worth of time to do $10.00 job.
If you have time to kill work it to death.[FONT=arial][/FONT]
3:01 pm
NWBA Member
June 8, 2010
Thanks Guys!!
I tried 3/32" 7014 and 3/32" 6013 using my Lincoln AC arc welder... The 7014 kinda started coming apart as I was forging a bundle of 8 pieces (about 1 inch dia.) down to 3/8's. The 6013 worked great!!:dance: Couldn't tell it wasn't a forge welded piece.
Thanks Gene for the idea of tapering and flattening the ends... I had left the 7014 bundle kinda ragged on the end and I think it might not have started coming apart if I had tapered and flattened the end.
Encouraged by the 6013 and the temperature of the forge, I tried for a couple of forge welds... Aaargh! Still didn't get it..:cold: I will get 'er done someday.
3:28 am
NWBA Member
July 19, 2011
4:27 am
NWBA Member
June 8, 2010
Gene Bland;15998 wrote: Lynn,
Are you using a gas or coal forge?:hot:
Hey Gene: Gas forge modeled after Daryl Nelson's forges....If I set it low, not hot enough... If I crank it up, too much oxygen and too much scale.... Still trying to figure it out... The only difference between Daryl's forge and mine is the propane tube.... He said his are 5/16" and mine is 3/8". Made the blower from a vacuum cleaner... I simply remember, working in Daryl's shop, I'd bring my metal out of the fire, and I'd think, "Damn, this is a welding heat!! " That's what caused me to make a forge like his.... Thanks so much for your help!!! Hoping to meet you at the Fall Conference... (I'm the guy who will be teaching the Friday evening" Al Bart recipient class...) Still trying to figure out the project...
2:22 pm
August 23, 2010
Lynn,
My immediate thought is you are not getting enough fuel to consume all the oxygen,which is causing the scale.You need dragon breath to know all the oxy has been consumed inside the forge and the unburned fuel is burning outside the forge where there is oxygen to support the burn. Can you give more fuel?
Good luck, Rob
10:20 pm
NWBA Member
September 25, 2010
Rob F;16000 wrote: Lynn,
My immediate thought is you are not getting enough fuel to consume all the oxygen,which is causing the scale.You need dragon breath to know all the oxy has been consumed inside the forge and the unburned fuel is burning outside the forge where there is oxygen to support the burn. Can you give more fuel?
Good luck, Rob
Lynn, Rob is right, but you also might see about restricting the amount of air that goes in, if you have already cranked up the volume of fuel.
Tim
Let us make a special effort to stop communicating with each other, so we can have some conversation.
Mark Twain
3:46 am
NWBA Member
July 19, 2011
5:29 am
NWBA Member
June 8, 2010
Gene Bland;16003 wrote: Lynn,
I have two gas forges and can weld in both. But I prefer to use coal for welding. You may have to consider a coal forge.:twins::twins:
I recently rebuilt an old rivet forge... Made a higher hood and sides for it so I could get at least a 6 inch deep fire... Haven't used a coal forge in 30 years and have found it to be so much work and a great big pain in the ass!!! Have to re-learn how to use a coal forge... Takes me a half hour to get it fired up and I still haven't got it to welding heat.:(:( This evening I fired up the forge I used to use... Atmospheric, venturi burner... and I started to wonder why I wanted something different... I started it up on high, to get it heated as quickly as possible, and once it was hot, dialed it down a bit... I looked into the fire and thought, "Damn, this is a welding heat." I think if I get this forge hot and blowing out a blue dragon's breath, boom,,, I'll be able to weld!!!:dance::dance::dance::dance: Can't wait to try it!!!
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