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3:16 pm
NWBA Member
February 5, 2014
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So i am looking at the website for Pacific machinery and tool steel and they have all these different designations like 5160 and A-2 and on and on. I assume the things like cold/hot rolled and annealed don't particularly matter since its gonna get forged anyway, but i dont know what is the best for what I'm using for. I am wanting to get some for making hardy tools, and some for knife making. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
10:48 pm
August 19, 2015
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Lots of options:
Some like plain mild steel usually a36 for tools. Widely available and cheap. You can case harden and or superquench it to toughen it up a bit
Mid carbon steel like 1045 or 4140 is also good for tooling, tougher than mild and relatively simple to heat treat.
I'd avoid fancy tool steels when starting out, heat treat on them is usually much more complex and they get expensive.
Most will recommend a plain carbon steel in the 0.7-0.9% carbon range for starting out with knife making. These will be easiest to heat treat in a forge: heat slightly past non-magnetic, quench in oil, temper twice around 400-450 degrees in your oven
With 4 number designation steels the last two digits represent the carbon content: 1018 is 0.18% carbon, 1095 is 0.95% carbon.
6:26 am
NWBA Member
March 22, 2011
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Hi Dreygan, where are you located? I may have a bar of 4140/4340 for ya.
As far as knife making, I'm no expert, but have dabbled quite a bit lately, both in the craft, but moreso in the research/learning aspect and here's my 2 cents: For starting out, go with a 1080-1084 steel. Many folks will suggest 1095, as it's fairly easy to get, but it's my understanding that without the proper heat treating equipment and experience, you'll end up with a knife that's basically a 1080 class with a simple/backyard heat treating setup. To get the full benefit of the 1095 hardness and toughness you need to be able to hold the blade within a 10 +/- degree temp range (1475 IIRC, which is a bit higher than non-magnetic 1425 IIRC) for 10 minutes before quenching in the proper medium.
Even though it sounds like I know what I'm talking about, please do some research and correct me as needed, because, like I said, I'm no expert and may be off on my numbers a bit.
as always
peace and love
billyO
10:54 am
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
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Not a knife maker here,but I make zillions (slight exageration here) ofanvil tools from tire irons. They behave like 5160. Ever try to break one on a wheel lug ?? For hardy tools Larry used to bring lots of old jackhammer bits to conferences.They work great. Maybe not the technical answer you were seeking,but sometimes you grab some likely looking scrap and GO.
10:42 am
NWBA Member
February 5, 2014
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Thank you very much for the replies.
3:03 pm
NWBA Member
February 5, 2014
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Eric Sprado said
Not a knife maker here,but I make zillions (slight exageration here) ofanvil tools from tire irons.
So if i am needing them to be about 1" square, arent tire irons like 1/2" inc diameter normally? would i just forge weld several together? or is there some trick im missing?
7:46 pm
NWBA Member
July 28, 2010
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No clue where you're at so I'll avoid location specific information.
Go to a local spring shop. Ask for their drops, you'll pay somewhere between scrap and near their costs.
You can do the alloys, just heat treat may be a problem, though it'd be hard to beat s-7 and h-13. So assuming you're going on a budget,you can get 4140 or 1045 fairly cheap for anvil tool. (Cf above spring shop). As mentioned above case hardening and super quench can be a further option.
For knife steels as suggested 1080-1084 are rather forgiving for simple steels, another option is 5160. I normally purchase 1080 new, 5160 new, and 1095, new as needed. Now for the on a budget option that makes me cringe. Use the above mentioned spring shop, when they make new leaf springs they will probly tell you they are using 5160, can get drops at scrap prices. The issue with that is normally thickness. If for whatever reason you go with scrap to make knives from. Coil springs are normally 5160, same as for used leaf springs. The problem with those are unless its from a new vehicle you do not know what was wrong with them. If from a new vehicle there is nothing saying the manufacturer couldn't decide to use a fancy air hardening steel. So buyer beware.
Now to be honest most of my beginning tools were made from ......... coil springs, till I got to the point of it's not worth my time fiddling with this stuff, I'd rather buy new know what I was using and avoid most of the issues of mystery/used steels.
6:55 pm
NWBA Member
February 5, 2014
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Rashelle said
No clue where you're at so I'll avoid location specific information.
I'm in Vancouver. Appreciate the response. Wish I understood more of what you guys were saying, but it helps.
7:53 pm
NWBA Member
July 28, 2010
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Ok, Pacific steel has 5160 = good for tough knives.
1045 or 4140 = good for hardy tools.
Oregon auto springs has 4140 drops, convenient sized for top and bottom tools all round.
They also have 5160 drops, rather thick for large knives, all flat stock. Better sizing at pacific steel.
I normally buy knife steel from Kelly Cupples in Yakima, I spend over $100.00 so get free shipping.
I buy tool steel from Pacific steel, almost always.
East side steel is where I get mild steel, there are Portland and Vancouver locations.
Odd things I get from the metal supermarket, I will also pay the price for them, but they will get it for me if desired.
When I used to get coil springs I used to go to Ram light truck salvage yard.
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