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7:33 pm
NWBA Member
August 8, 2010
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After banging my legs on my anvil stump for several years it was time to build a new one.
My main requirements were rock solid on my uneven concrete floor, small footprint and being able to sweep underneath. After reading everything I could find this was the result.
I love it!
Dave
No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin
9:26 pm
April 7, 2011
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Nice looking stand. You need three legs for stability and to be able to get up close and personal with your anvil.
Good work.
Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
669 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
423-628-6444
[EMAIL=waynecoe@highland.net]waynecoe@highland.net[/EMAIL]
http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com
11:14 pm
NWBA Member
September 25, 2010
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Really nice. I need to think in this direction, but I don't weld. 🙁
Regards,
Tim
Let us make a special effort to stop communicating with each other, so we can have some conversation.
Mark Twain
1:37 am
March 21, 2011
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Is a tripod like that more springy than a stump or large block of wood? Would you lose any of the power of the blow on a tripod? I suppose if the tripod is robust enough then it's OK. But how robust does it need to be?
2:34 pm
NWBA Member
September 25, 2010
Offline
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong (and I often am).
The spring in a stump or any other base for an anvil is bad, you want there to be a connection from the anvil to the base to the ground so that there is no power robbing bounce. The rebound comes from the working face of the anvil and any movement below that would loose effective transfer of force.
A larger anvil is more efficient. A smaller anvil can be made more efficient by securing it to a heavy base and that heavy base secured to the floor.
The nice stiff tripods I've seen, are mostly able to be secured to the floor too, which again makes them better.
Regards,
Tim
Let us make a special effort to stop communicating with each other, so we can have some conversation.
Mark Twain
6:21 pm
March 21, 2011
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Secure to the floor or not, there is a compressive strength for steel and a compressive strength for wood. Multiplying the compressive strength in psi by the total inch^2 of area will give you the relative capabilities of the materials.
But in actuality it's more complicated than that. There's another measure call 'yield strength' that tells you how much load you can put on a metal before it permanently changes shape. But even before that you're getting flex (lost energy).
Also, the wider your tripod base the more stress you add to the tripod legs. The load becomes an eccentric load, that is, it's not directed linearly down the pipe, but rather a portion of the load is directed perpendicular to the length of pipe. The wider the feet are spread, the more load is perpendicular to the pipe and the more likely the pipe is to deflect (flex).
I'm not an engineer and I haven't done the calcs for that tripod, but my gut tells me it's approaching the point where deflection would be an issue.
3:38 am
NWBA Member
August 8, 2010
Offline
I was reading Aspery's Vol I today [from our NWBA lending library].
Mark makes the case for 3 inches of plywood between the steel anvil stand and the steel anvil. He believes this increases the anvil's rebound. This is a good thing in his view.
I am a 'gentleman smith' doing only what I want to do in my shop [2nd year of retirement].
If this was my only income I would probably be more concerned with 'optimum". I ain't 🙂
The new stand is plenty strong, has a small footprint and is easy to sweep under. I no longer bang my shins 3 or 4 times every time I go out to my shop.
I am certain that if Tom was given time and interest he could calculate the ideal components for the perfect response from a stand.
For me, this is all grade A 100 percent FUN!!!. guys 🙂
Dave
No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin
8:14 pm
November 8, 2011
Offline
nice stand i have a similar one on my peter wright
i actually use my anvil with a big block of wood in between to prevent damaging my anvil and it allows me to adjust the height for different types of work
i still need to put mounts on my stand tho so i can keep the anvil from moving around
1:27 am
NWBA Member
August 8, 2010
Offline
It would be nice to have the adjustment available- oft times i wish it were higher or lower- would save wear and tear on the back for some work. Gonna use it as is, though- lowering would require that the legs and feet be shortened.
Dave
No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin
3:55 am
May 22, 2010
Offline
That's a very nice stand Eric, :wavespin: I think I'm going to have to make me a stand for my other 4 anvils that don't have a proper stand for them =) Very good Idea ... :dance:
Brad Roland :hot:
12:52 am
January 21, 2012
Offline
Hey dere;
is that 1/4" X 2" angle iron for the anvil stand?
all the best
eric m;12992 wrote: nice stand i have a similar one on my peter wright
i actually use my anvil with a big block of wood in between to prevent damaging my anvil and it allows me to adjust the height for different types of worki still need to put mounts on my stand tho so i can keep the anvil from moving around
2:47 am
April 12, 2010
Offline
looks like tube to me. with angle iron for the top where the anvil sits.
8:54 pm
May 27, 2010
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It sure is purty. Nice job. If it works for you that's all that matters.
Any time I've demo'd using a three legged stand I keep tripping over the one leg. Question, if a log holds up an anvil without falling over then why do smiths make the metal stands with the legs spread out instead of keeping it under the anvil? Why not make the legs just straight down and if you want a wider base then put that on the ground like in a flange or plate?
Randy McDaniel
http://www.drgnfly4g.com
"We do not quit playing because we grow old, we grow old because we quit playing." Oliver Wendell Holmes
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