1:24 am
June 3, 2010
8:47 pm
November 17, 2010
Mark;3467 wrote: I agree. I watched the video of you forging a tong blank and I was blown away by how efficient you moved that metal so perfectly in 1 heat.
I saw the same video and couldn't get over the hammer control. There were just enough strikes to get the job done, and not a single one wasted. I generally beat the hell out of something until it agrees to be whatever I'm making. I have so far to go.
Brian- Thanks for showing us the things you do. We can all pick up something no matter where we are on the experience scale. Please keep it up.
8:56 pm
March 22, 2010
Ditto, you rock Brian, I make it a point to try e everything you post.
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
3:40 pm
December 12, 2010
4:33 pm
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
ok i follow your point on tapered shank for hot cut ..ive recently made a tool to make drawer pulls and it works fairly well but occasionally it bounces enuf to leave the hearty hole and fall to the ground ... ive thought of various ways to hold it in i tried it clamped in vice but it works better in anvil any thoughts ?
8:47 pm
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
10:05 pm
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
Eric Sprado;5912 wrote: Eric: What size stock are you using in your drawer pull jig? I'm making a similar jig. Used a piece of jackhammer bit with the collar in place. Drew out below the collar to fit my hardy and am ready to punch a hole in the top for my drawer pull/bolster..
thanks, Eric Sprado
was using 1 3/4 of 3/4 sq to make um works well just bounces sometimes .....
2:22 am
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
5:17 am
NWBA Member
Board Member
October 4, 2010
2:05 pm
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
3:27 pm
Just a note on spring straightening.
I see a lot cut the spring in some saw then straighten it out and am not sure what approach most take but I do know that heating the whole spring then unravelling it is great and quick.
If the spring is real big then some convenient tractor or pick up could be put into use.
then when cut all the ends are square.
for a quick biting cut off tool I use a butcher. that is a curved face butcher that curves the other way and is flat to one side. the two higher edges keep the tool on track and give a solid mark to carry on from(and I can see the cut). Cutting around the frogs I use a brickies chisel that is so worn and re-sharpened it has the same concave face to make it easy to get the edges in first.
I like the tapered hardy shank that can travel from one anvil to the other. but rarely use a hardy.
5:45 am
NWBA Member
August 8, 2010
Hey Brian-
I have copies of your posts all over my shop. I want to try my hand at a lot of them but just don't have the skills yet.
I am buying one of your style rounding hammers that is due in first part of next week.
I called the man making it after seeing your curved hot cut and one of those will be with the new hammer.
I have no striker to help with the heavy stuff [it's ALL heavy stuff to us inexperienced, new smiths] for now.
Your work is very very impressive and I appreciate all the help you give the rest of us.
Hope within a year or so to try some of you projects, probably the crane. I can ruin a lot of smaller steel without breaking the bank.
Thanks for being willing to share!
Dave Evans
Tenino, WA
Dave
No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin
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