Heavy gate strategy

[Rob F]

Another way you could do it by keeping you existing strategy would be to angle the top hinge to point its axis EXACTLY at the lower pivot. It would open funny though. End of gate would go closer to ground as it opens.

[Ken Albert]

Just have the stock cut and laid out on the table. Nothing forged or assembled. The hinges are a long way off. Hope to have my thinker limbered up by then.

[Bruce Macmillan]

Well, now I see what you mean. I guess that's the bottom line value of enlisting others' comments. You might be able to pull it back a ways and fling something across the street, but you'd have a heck of a time getting the car through. OK, there's a big hurdle. Thanks.

No big deal, just offset the bottom pivot as needed.....

[Ken Albert]

Really nice design, Bruce. It's the best part. Hard to follow through after that's established sometimes.

[Stretch]

Here is a gate I did the hardware for. They were 3" thick and about 8 ft at the back. I thnk they were 12 ft wide. The posts were all tied together in concrete foundation. The hinges are 2 1/2" barrels 24" long. Everything was all bolted into the wood and all the plates and bolts hold the gate together. This is one of two sets we did. Their wood worker built and installed the gates. As far as I know nothing has moved yet. These are into the garden.
The other gate is 2 gates 8 ft wide. They are the same kind of hinges, a bit smaller and welded to a plate 4" wide and 1/2" thick. Their are bolts through the bricks to threaded holes in a matching plate inside the brick post and then the brick post was filled with concrete. It is very simple to tighten or loosed the bolts though to match up the center of the gates. They work very well.

[Ken Albert]

That's more like "heavy gate strategy". Small, even reveal between. Big with more developed profile makes it a more important design element. Makes me think I should chuck the block hinges and draw something more sculptural.