Mokume Gane acid etch.

[kelly]

I am wondering about the process of acid etching a billet of Mokume Gane made using a stack of quarters. I read and followed the article directions in the current issue of the Hammers Blow.

I have got a very nice looking necklace pendant that I have made and I used the Etchant product from Radio Shack, ferris oxide I think it is.

I applied some acid using a cotton swab and wiped it off fairly quickly (maybe after thirty seconds or so of rubbing with swab) I then rinsed it off in a baking soda water mixture to stop the reaction. I was fairly happy with the result but I would have liked for the nickel to come out a little shinier.

My questions are these; How long do I let the acid contact the material? Is it a quick swipe with an acid coated swab, or more of a long soak in a glass dish? How do I get the most contrast between the copper and the nickel?

[Gene C]

No experience with mokume but when I etched damascus the ferric cloride was diluted with water, perhaps 4 water, 1 ferric cloride, it etches slow and you can see it etch, use plastic container.

rinsed in water using cloth or paper towel to remove dark surface film.

[kelly]

Gene, thanks for the advice. I have been experimenting with different soak times in the acid, and have had some interesting results.

I fear though that my sons might start to wonder why their piggy banks are missing so many quarters.

I am always so grateful to be a part of an organization whose members are so willing to help others by sharing information.

[Mike B]

When I made quarter mokume a few times in the past, I just sanded it smooth and buffed it out. The color contrast between the metals is enough that an etch isn't necessary. (But I haven't tried an etch -- maybe it's worth the effort.)

I learned a different welding technique as well. I just find a pair of flat tongs that will close on the top and bottom of the stack, and grab it so that about half protrudes beyond the jaws. I then hold the tongs in the fire until the nickel in the quarters looks like it's about to melt (and probably is). Once it comes up to heat, I rest the exposed part of the stack on the edge of the anvil and tap with a small hammer until it welds. I then take another heat and weld the other side of the stack.