Between heats working on making some tongs, I forged this guy. Again, no welding, all forged from one piece of 1" by 3/8" by 2.5" long. It's about 2.5" round.
Let's see if anyone can guess how I made it![]()
Between heats working on making some tongs, I forged this guy. Again, no welding, all forged from one piece of 1" by 3/8" by 2.5" long. It's about 2.5" round.
Let's see if anyone can guess how I made it![]()
some people get 20 years of experience...other people get one year of experience 20 times...
-Deker
Nice piece Sam. Do you have step by step photos? It could make a great How-To article for the web site or the Hot Iron News.
My son is the Blacksmith
thinned out the bar, draw out one leg, split the bar and forge the other legs.
Very nice,
Gene C (armchair blacksmith)
I'd guess you did the split first, easier to work on it before drawing out the short end of the bar.
Split the bar 1 1/2'' while still attached to a longer piece....draw out the two and start the scrolls.....cut off at 2 1/2'' mark and work the 3rd leg....tweak with torch and scroll pliers in the vise.........?
“What do you most value in your friends? Their continued existence.”
― Christopher Hitchens
Thanks guys! I punched a slot 2/3rds up the bar, then drew out both legs then the 3rd.
some people get 20 years of experience...other people get one year of experience 20 times...
-Deker
I like it![]()
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Anyone ever done the taper first, then split to get two tapers without a lot of fiddling around to keep them apart while forging?
Gotta leave them a little thick for clean up after the split, but it works a treat. Lets me move more mass with the power hammer and then to the clean up by hand. (Power hammer would probably be overkill on this piece.)
The triskele is cool Sam.
Lewis yes I like doing most of a taper then splitting as it enables me to more easily get the two to match from the get-go. As half the taper other then some clean up is already there. It all being hand hammering for me.
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