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Thread: Arbor press modification

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Arbor press modification

    So I have this idea to modify this brand new dake arbor press I have, it is a Y model, 1.5 tons. I want to remove the hand lever assembly and replace it with a heavy flywheel and a V belt pulley with a slack belt and tensioner. My idea is for it to be an automatic light duty press, for using bending jigs under. you step on the pedal which engages the belt and flywheel and the press comes down, then a spring return brings it back up. small fractional horsepower motor here nothing huge, not fast, not for forging, sort of like a fly press.
    some people get 20 years of experience...other people get one year of experience 20 times...
    -Deker

  2. #2
    I think you'ld have to be careful not to overload the press by sizing the flywheel/rpm right. I imagine having it come apart under load wouldn't be fun. Maybe some kind of shock absorber in the system like the springs in the hub of a cars clutch plate.

    Wouldn't you want the flywheel on the motor side rather then on the punch shaft so it doesn't bog down when engaged?

    What about rigging a foot lever up to operate it rather than the hand lever? Might be easier and safer than putting a motor on it.

  3. #3
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    Yeah, the flywheel would not be huge. I am looking to automate the action of the press not magnify it's force. I know there's other things that could do this better but I am working with what I have, a bunch of fractional HP motors and a arbor press i got for free.
    some people get 20 years of experience...other people get one year of experience 20 times...
    -Deker

  4. #4
    The belt clutch would need enough "traction" so enought power is transfered to the rack to generate a useful amount of force, but if it doesn't have enough slip you might over capacity the press. I'ld just be worried about a possible accident like when a punch press gets jammed. I think its the momentum that'll be a problem as a manual arbor press normally doesn't see much mometum, people just pull on the lever.

  5. #5
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    How many rotations does it take for the movement you need?
    My son is the Blacksmith

  6. #6
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    Will, I think a firm step on the pedal to tighten the belt slack would give it enough traction, just one to start it. I think there won't be a problem with over stressing the frame as long as it has a "soft landing" IE expending it's energy, on hot steel. I am thinking it would be used almost exclusively for bending things hot.

    8 complete revolutions Jeff.
    some people get 20 years of experience...other people get one year of experience 20 times...
    -Deker

  7. #7
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    Jeff my mistake it's only 2 3/4 complete revolutions for complete travel.

    I am thinking a bicycle rim for the larger pulley, easiest way to mount it is to bolt it right to the shaft and owuld give me a nice big reduction.
    some people get 20 years of experience...other people get one year of experience 20 times...
    -Deker

  8. #8
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    Do you think the bicycle wheel spokes will be able to survive the shock loading?
    My son is the Blacksmith

  9. #9
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    Oh yeah no problem, they handle upwards of 200 pounds jumping and slamming them around.
    some people get 20 years of experience...other people get one year of experience 20 times...
    -Deker

  10. #10
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    Are you thinking a rigid spoke wheel or a wire spoke wheel? I don't think bicycle wheels are designed to resist the rotational torque so much as the compressive load. I was wondering about the end of stroke when you essentially have a locked hub and a rotating rim. (In case it sounds like I know something about it let me assure you, I don't!)
    My son is the Blacksmith

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