The magic wand

[Grant]

This is the flexible extension cable for the induction forge. Had this thread hidden as I was just sharing information with friends in England. Decided that if someone wanted to make their own, I'd show them everything I have learned.

All ya get is pictures, I'm too tired to write.

[david hyde]

Thanks Grant, just gave them a once over but a picture, thousand words and all that

[Grant]

A few points:

NO MORE THAN 30" LONG" Longer does not work!

Cut hose 1" longer than braid.

ANYTHING close to the lines will become hot! Rings, belt buckle, bench.

White tape is fiber glass electrical tape.

Black is old fashion cloth friction tape.

Put nuts on before flaring.

Handle is 1" PVC, heat with hair dryer and squeeze oval.

Put hoses through handle before hose clamps.

Use PLASTIC hose clamps.

If you see bubbles in hose, turn off current for a few seconds, that is steam.

Use low current, cooling is marginal without a separate pump.

OK, now I'll take questions. David; put your hand down!

[david hyde]

Thanks Grant

It's hard to get a scale, is the copper tube 8mm? If so I guess the copper braid is quite small as well (similar X section to the 8mm tube ??) Over here we have 5x0.7mm (far too small) 10x2mm, 12x2.3mm ....

Good call about the platic clips.

I'm having trouble sourcing the coupling nuts, you did mention what they were but I'm not sure which thread it was in

seperate pump????

[Grant]

Thanks Grant

It's hard to get a scale, is the copper tube 8mm? If so I guess the copper braid is quite small as well (similar X section to the 8mm tube ??) Over here we have 5x0.7mm (far too small) 10x2mm, 12x2.3mm ....

Good call about the platic clips.

I'm having trouble sourcing the coupling nuts, you did mention what they were but I'm not sure which thread it was in

seperate pump????

Yes, 8mm OD.

6 X 4 JIC flare tube reducer, similar to this: Screw them on the front of the machine so you can use 6mm OD tube.

Braid is 5 X .7mm

Cooling is poor due to water flow, be good to use a separate pump just for the coil..

[david hyde]

what do you think about making a step up bit so the copper tube is say 12mm OD and then maybe using 10mm braid or 12mm braid (at a squeeze) this would allow biiger bore plastic hose and a less restictive water flow and maybe less resistive losses (is this what limits it to 30" or is it some electromagnetic effect)

[Grant]

What I have is just one solution I have found to work. Experiment away!

Great for rivets and upsetting in the vise. Loosens stuck nuts too!

I used to use two conductors in the hose but found it unnecessary.

Pretty cool having our own private forum, huh?

[John N]

Ive met myself coming back already a couple of times this week so have not had a proper looksy at the wand setup yet, but will have an absorb one evening!

Grant, Good thread on dons bladesmith forum about the heaters going on, I think everyone is starting to realise they need one

I welded 12 layers of stainless in mine the other day, now thats cool Well it was after I cleared up the mess from the accidental 'smelts' , it diddnt just start to melt like in a gasser, it just liquifies all at once! - very entertaining.

[david hyde]

I welded 12 layers of stainless in mine the other day, now thats cool Well it was after I cleared up the mess from the accidental 'smelts' , it diddnt just start to melt like in a gasser, it just liquifies all at once! - very entertaining.

TEL ME MORE .... and I don't even want to make SPOs (sharp pointy objects)

[John N]

Patternwelding stainless seems to be one of the few remaining mysteries, with very little info on line about how to do it, so ive stuck with tradition and not posted up a tutorial (my reconing is anyone who really wants to do it will work out how pretty quick, and its nice to have some mysteries!)

I went the high tech route.... pickled 12 pieces of 2"x 1" x .030" 304 & 316 in 30% sulphuric, stick welded a couple of tacks to hold it together and a handle, wrapped it in 1/4" thick ceramic wool, slipped it inside a coil and then cooked for about 1 min.

Then the whole shebang (wool and all) under the power hammer. Bang & stuck no time to mess about removing the wool! gotta be fast ( on the 'b' of the bang ! )

I think there is some good mileage in wrapping with wool, gets massively hotter and keeps the pesky oxy out!

Ill have a mess around to see how much bigger I can make the billets (it was kinda small) , but very deffinatly welded, it took a very tight twist without shearing!

I think there is much more mileage in jewellery applications for s.s damascus than SPO's , hence my use of austentic grades (at this stage anyhoo)