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9:16 pm
August 5, 2010
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....unless he stands too close to induction,
('coz hes not followed instruction....,)
he'll feel the sting,
from the hidden piercing,
'coz he forgot the laws of conduction
9:28 pm
March 18, 2010
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LOL!:bounce::giggle: Who's up next?
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
9:30 pm
June 16, 2010
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Too bad he's not from Nantucket...
9:40 pm
March 18, 2010
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I should add that my rig would probably cool a 100KW machine. If I forget to run the cold water and my machine faults out (130° F?) it only takes 2-3 minutes to bring it back down to 45-50°. So see how much 8mm tube (I know, you pronounce it “tyoob”, we pronounce it “toob”) you can fit in the tank and just “crack” your tap to keep a little cold water going through.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
10:06 pm
March 18, 2010
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Mark;2214 wrote: Too bad he's not from Nantucket...
Or good thing he's not!
There was a young man from Manchester..................
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
11:10 pm
June 24, 2010
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I was wondering if Grant's coil might be a little overkill. I was just looking at a 1500W hot water heater element, which uses 14" of 5/16 tube. That works out to a little less than 100W per square inch. By my math, 20' of 5/8" tube would be good for about 45KW at the same heat transfer rate. Probably right in the ballpark for cooling a 100KW machine.
11:30 pm
March 18, 2010
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Yeah, but we're not talking much temperature differential, like from 50° to 100°. Plus the water in the tube gets warmer as it travels through, so flow rate matters. That slows heat transfer. Circulation in the tank makes a big difference. Way too many variables. I can turn my flow rate down to where it's barely effective too. As I often say "optimum is impossible, so you can either under-engineer or over-engineer - what would you rather"?
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
11:32 pm
March 26, 2010
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Grant;2216 wrote: Or good thing he's not!
There was a young man from Manchester..................
There was a young man from Manchester
Whose trousers were made from polyester
He burnt his crown jewel
With his new induction tool
And down there it did rot and slowly fester
There was young man from Nantucket
Whose cooling system was a bucket
He forgot to use anifreeze
....
....
11:41 pm
March 26, 2010
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JNewman;2201 wrote: The only problem with hooking up your water to an auto filler for your slack tub is you may run into issues with the city/water authority
Fortunately I'm not on a water meter just a fixed rate twice a year. It's more the fact that I don't like pouring good clean filtered water down the drain, kinda pricks my conscience a little too much given the state of "water" for a lot of the rest of the world. That said, I'll probably rig a total loss system + heat exchanger up anyway but promise myself when I get a bigger workshop I'll rig up a proper recirculating cooler. Actually all I have to do is look at a golf course to not to feel to bad about what I'll be doing.
11:44 pm
March 26, 2010
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Grant;2215 wrote: I should add that my rig would probably cool a 100KW machine. If I forget to run the cold water and my machine faults out (130° F?) it only takes 2-3 minutes to bring it back down to 45-50°. So see how much 8mm tube (I know, you pronounce it “tyoob”, we pronounce it “toob”) you can fit in the tank and just “crack” your tap to keep a little cold water going through.
Yeah, I've got a 10m coil of 8 mm (OD). My gut reaction is that there's more than enough surface area there to cool it with a flow of cold water over it. Blowing through though I can "feel" there'll be a lot of flow restriction though. Guess I'll try it, if no good I'll up it to 12mm OD.
11:52 pm
June 24, 2010
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I just came back to post that the real world was catching up with me, but Grant had already posted the flaws I'd found in my logic (and more that I hadn't found). On the other hand, a hot water heater element has to heat hot water (albeit under some pressure) without boiling it, so the temperature differential can't be huge. (And overkill wasn't intended as a criticism).
If I use extra water, I figure it just means a little more makes a few miles of its journey from the Blue Ridge Mountains to the Chesapeake Bay through some pipes instead of in the Potomac River. Of course, there is the small matter of the treatment plants at both ends. And the somewhat larger (to me) matter of my water bill.
11:54 pm
March 26, 2010
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....
so got down on his knees
And cried out loud oh ......... where can I chuck it
12:02 am
March 26, 2010
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God I love this machine!
Started playing around with some ceramic paper to insulate the coils as I slide stock backwards and forwards .... looks promising. Next step is use some of the rigidizer that I use with ceramic wool to make a "sturdier" shell.
When I got this tool I thought I wanted it for it's capacity to heat big chunks of steel up very quickly, but I'm finding it's ability to tightly isolate heat very useful, especially when making and adjusting tong jaws. This machine and John Emmerling's jig for making tong blanks makes it a joy to make, and experiment with making, tongs. I was always always ***t at doing tongs before, completely and utterly ***t
BTW those tong jaws are the first "proper" thing I've done with it beside just messing around and seeing where it's limits are. First of many many many things to come.
9:48 am
March 26, 2010
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Of course there's always the DIY approach.
Actually, I'm pretty impressed by this guy's home brewed version. I've seen a few on Utube that barely get a coin dull red, this one's pretty fast and powerfull. He's also genuinely impressed that it didn't explode ("again" in his own words). As a passionate metalworking geek I can only applaud an equally as passionate geek, whatever their chosen field.
3:07 pm
June 9, 2010
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but I'm finding it's ability to tightly isolate heat very useful,
Upsets are suddenly fun. Reverse twists, anyone?
10:54 pm
March 26, 2010
Offline2:49 am
NWBA Member
April 22, 2010
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Reverse twists-
yet another reason I need one of these.
6:51 pm
May 27, 2010
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Okay, I'll add something that I haven't seen anything about with the induction forge: how about forge welding with it. I was using the one at the New England School of Metalwork and it was no problem getting the 5/8" square bars up to welding heat, both in the coil at the same time, I could get them to stick in the coil, but had no luck in actually welding them together this way once I got to the anvil. Frustrating, too, as I was teaching a forge welding class. Any tips, suggestions or something I just missed?
Randy McDaniel
http://www.drgnfly4g.com
"We do not quit playing because we grow old, we grow old because we quit playing." Oliver Wendell Holmes
7:15 pm
March 18, 2010
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I've done a bit of forge welding in it. Had good luck just butt-welding right in the coil, push and twist, pull it out and dress it up. I've then been able to bend it 90 degrees! With any kind of weld it's important to turn the heat way down so you get a good soaking heat rather than just frying the surface.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
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