4:29 am
NWBA Member
November 8, 2010
Hey Ryan, I broke my venturi forge down here: http://blacksmith.org/forums/t.....cro-Forges
Also a picture of my bigger fan driven forge as well.
They only remember you when you SCREW UP~!!!
3:02 am
NWBA Member
September 15, 2012
I've been reading about using castable refractory and was wondering how you fire it initially. I see that the manufacturer's recommendations are for a pretty long term initial heating with a gradual increase in temperature over time, and I don't have the equipment/time for the manufacturers recommendations. Am I looking at the wrong product, or are the manufacturers recommendations overkill? I like the idea of using a castable too
3:49 am
NWBA Member
November 8, 2010
Gary Whitman;16500 wrote: I've been reading about using castable refractory and was wondering how you fire it initially. I see that the manufacturer's recommendations are for a pretty long term initial heating with a gradual increase in temperature over time, and I don't have the equipment/time for the manufacturers recommendations. Am I looking at the wrong product, or are the manufacturers recommendations overkill? I like the idea of using a castable too
Ideally the mud needs a couple of days to set. If you fire it too early, it will crack badly if not spall as all the steam tries to get out. A method I heard years ago that works great is to plant a light bulb inside the forge for a few days to provide a gentle warming. In my experience, the longer you let them cure without firing the better
They only remember you when you SCREW UP~!!!
4:22 am
NWBA Member
September 15, 2012
That's actually a really good idea, I've been sitting here trying to think of a bunch of complicated ways of doing something that a lightbulb could do! I saw that High Temp Inc. has the castable at a much better price than I was originally looking at too (on ebay, and I think their retail prices weren't far off that price minus the shipping), and they aren't too far away from me. I've bought stuff from them before and they were helpful and friendly people to do business with. Just don't use a google map to try to get there, lol
10:49 am
April 7, 2011
I suggest casting the forge and let it set overnight, then put it in the oven at 500 degrees for about 3 hours.
If not use:
1. the light bulb
2. fan fire from a hand held torch for a few seconds several times a day for a few days
3, time.
When cured pint the inside with Plistix or Metrikote.
Check out my prices at http://www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com.
Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
669 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
423-628-6444
[EMAIL=waynecoe@highland.net]waynecoe@highland.net[/EMAIL]
http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com
9:35 pm
NWBA Member
September 15, 2012
10:42 pm
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
GARY, You haven't said where you are located. If you are in the north west, Seattle Pottery Supply and Clay Arts in Tacoma stock Refectory suitable for forge building. Wayne has what you need, but is a bit further away. A search of the NWBA forums will provide you with a lot of information regards forge and burner construction. Keep asking here too. From any four blacksmiths you'll likely get five or six answers. Most of them will work too!
I'm going back to the shop now.
Jeff
My son is the Blacksmith
10:48 am
April 7, 2011
Jeff has a point and if you need a lot (55#) of the Kast-0-Lite you may be better off getting it locally, however if you need just enough to build one forge, and if you then need Plistix or Metrikote (they come in 50# pales and you only need about 2#) and then you need 2 or 3 feet of Inswool (it comes in 25 foot rolls) I may save you money and no sales tax but you must add shipping.
Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
669 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
423-628-6444
[EMAIL=waynecoe@highland.net]waynecoe@highland.net[/EMAIL]
http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com
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