3:08 pm
July 29, 2010
5:28 pm
January 18, 2011
Rob;17449 wrote: I have a 120lb. Sodefors anvil. I am sure I botched the spelling on that one. There are several chips off the corners and no nice rounded edges. I would like to repair this myself. Any advice on how to do it?
Thanks,
RH
A pic would help. Just how bad are these chips?
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
3:52 am
NWBA Member
June 8, 2010
I have repaired an anvil... Welded new edges on it... First... What Bruce said, "How bad are the chips or edges." In my experience, you want a nice radius edge for most of the anvil... Okay to keep a sharper edge for marking or such...
I used a tool steel stick rod... Forget just what it is called... Just ask at the welding shop... Pre-heated the anvil to 450 I think... Used a tempill stick to get the temp right... Clamped a piece of 1/4" copper plate to keep the weld from dripping down the side and slowly built it up and then ground the weld to where I wanted it to be... Worked Great!!!
2:30 pm
July 29, 2010
Thanks for the responses. The chips aren't huge or anything. There's just a bunch of them along both the long edges. I just want to smooth them out so I am not transferring the chips to my stock. I will try to get some pics together.
My other question related to this anvil is, how do I control the ring? This one rings like a bell. I thought of making the sand filled stand I saw in the Loreli Sims book. Any other simpler solutions?
Thanks,
Rob
4:35 pm
January 18, 2011
Rob;17468 wrote: Thanks for the responses. The chips aren't huge or anything. There's just a bunch of them along both the long edges. I just want to smooth them out so I am not transferring the chips to my stock. I will try to get some pics together.
My other question related to this anvil is, how do I control the ring? This one rings like a bell. I thought of making the sand filled stand I saw in the Loreli Sims book. Any other simpler solutions?
Thanks,
Rob
Weld no, you'll likely do more harm than good. Dress/radius edges yes.
My #9 Peddinghaus sits on a steel box filled w/ concrete, maybe 300lbs, heavy as hell but still movable. Works for me......:smoke:
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
2:46 am
NWBA Member
July 18, 2010
6:34 am
NWBA Member
January 19, 2011
Bruce Crittenden;17475 wrote: Rob, try going to the site ...The Blacksmiths Anvil...There is a section on anvil repair where they explain the process of tig welding the anvil edge with s-7 rod .Check it out .It could be a system that would work for you. Isn't the soderfos cast steel?
Good Luck let us know if you do it.
Hi Rob I have welded up a lot of anvils with good results. Soderfors is a cast steel anvil if you have heavy edge chipping it sould make for a good repair. The heat afected zone will be a little softer and make for a edge that is not to hard . Use copper strip to hold edge. Heat anvil to 350 to 400 no more than 400 keep it at 300 to 400. though out welding process. Build it up so you like it grind it with 9 inch grinder to keep top flat. I use a rod called MG 710 after air harding it will be about 50 rockwell. If anvil is usesabul I would clean up with flapdisk and go to work on it Only draw back is you have to by 5 lb of rod and its not cheap Tell welding supplyer what you want and take no other rod. There are a lot of anvils in Seattle area that are holding up well some of them are getting close to 20 years of every day use and still doing well. Give me a call if I can be of any help 360 710 2248 P S you need to do pre heat welding and grinding all in one process after welding and cooling it will be a lot harder to grind. After welding rap in fire blanket to cool slowly. Bill Apple
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