Little Giant Question | Power Hammers and Presses | Forum

The cotton or felt covers also act as oil wicks and tend to regulate the amount of oil that flows into the bearings. If the holes are completely uncovered, the oil will run right out after application so the covers play a dual role. The copper mat would be better than nothing but not as good as the finer materials. It's better to have a light continual lube film on babbitt (and other bearing materials) rather than a quick flood followed by little or nothing while being used.

Richard Kern's book, "The Little Giant Powerhammer" has a couple of chapters on proper lubrication of bearings and discusses wicks, oiling cups, journal design, etc. I've seen a few hammers with drip oilers mounted to the top of the bearing cap - which is also a good idea.

There are two appendices in the back of the book that discuss bearings. They don't specifically say that LG bearings should be oiled at a rate of 12.5 drops per minute (or whatever) but do clearly outline good practice, to include various methods of lubing.

A hickory shirt is a good sturdy shirt like the old railroad folks used to use. Generally it's a triple stitched tough cotton type shirt, almost like "Carhart" pants if you will. I think any material will work that is good at "wicking". This means most "Cotton" fabric will work. ps. I wouldn't use something flammable like polyester.... just saying.

On a side note, Brenda and I bought a 25 LB LG from Bill, it's working great now. I replaced the heads with brand new ones and now have the typical "oil stripe" all around the clutch wheel ... yes, the ceiling, floor ... anything within about 15 feet of the hammer! :mstickle: I oil it every time I use it, more if I use it more than an hour at a time. I've been having a blast playing with it and getting used to how it works. Earplugs are a necessity as well as being safe of course, keep your hands clear!

Bill replaced the Babbitt bearings and the Babbitt oilers with zerk fittings so I use a grease gun on those and they work excellent so far! Zerk is the way to go for the babbitt bearings and anywhere else you can, they make lubricating maintenance so much more easy!

Thanks again Bill for the Hammer!

We hope to come to the Hammer-in, but work has been wanting to work Overtime a lot since the new year, so time will tell whether or not we will be there.

Hope to make it, if not, take care all and have a great time! :showoff:

I think most of the previous information is good. I prefer light oil to grease on babbit or bronze but only because the oil washes out anything that might get in the bearing where grease might hold it. As far as lubrication goes once grease gets hot it more or less turns to oil and the grease stays in place with less fuss and fear of running it dry.

A well maintained hammer should be covered in oil/grease. Thats one of the things I look for when inspecting a running hammer. If its not a mess with oil then its not been oiled enough.

I think cotton cloth in the bottom of the valley and cotton batting on top is best to wad in the bearing oil valley, just like others have said its more about holding some of the oil and allowing it to drip/wick into the bearing over time.

Just remember you simply cannot oil a machine too often. I think the best thing is a golden-rod oil can right next to the hammer and several times a day put a few squirts every where you can. Dont forget to oil all the pin/pivot points in the toggles and arms, The pitman and the guides. Depending on what kind of clutch you have it might require some oil as well (wood blocks need oiled and I often put just a touch on friction belt clutches as well)

My 50# LG, and most of them, are from a different era. As they were designed and as Larry said, LG's should be dripping in oil. My LG was built in 1922 and I don't believe there were sealed bearing then. I don't think it matters what material you use as long as it works. I have chosen to use the oil can and oil it before I start and every hour. The LG's have so much character and I'm sure each one is a little different.