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4:51 am
NWBA Member
August 8, 2010
Offline
I am probably the last man on earth who doesn't know how to form the little dimples for screws. There is a definite swelling around the screw hole that looks like the screw has been countersunk.
I have been making simple hooks the last couple weeks and don't like the way they look with just a drilled hole- not nearly as elegant as the swelled dimple surrounding the screw head.
My current hook stock is 1/4 round. I have ruined many hooks and the last couple days I have just been trying to get the dimple BEFORE making the hooks.
I can't even look them up on google or Utube cause I don't know what they are called.
The hook making demos and vids all stop when the hook is done and don't show how the dimple is made.
Dave
Dave
No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin
4:56 am
NWBA Member
March 22, 2011
Offline
Not exactly sure what you're talking about, Dave, but it sounds like either you need a countersink bit for the drill press after you drill the hole to let the screw set into the steel, or you could use an appropriate sized round bob punch to give the dimple before drilling/punching the hole. Is that what you were talking about?
as always
peace and love
billyO
11:47 am
April 7, 2011
Offline
Either make a ball punch or use a ball pien hammer. Place the ball where you want the demple and strike the face of the hammer or punch. Do it hot then either punch or drill the hole. You might want to heat the face of the ball pien hammer to normalize the hardened face for safety's sake. You will get a foot ball shapped demple.
Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
669 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
423-628-6444
[EMAIL=waynecoe@highland.net]waynecoe@highland.net[/EMAIL]
http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com
1:17 pm
NWBA Member
January 19, 2011
Offline
D_Evans;17414 wrote: I am probably the last man on earth who doesn't know how to form the little dimples for screws. There is a definite swelling around the screw hole that looks like the screw has been countersunk.
I have been making simple hooks the last couple weeks and don't like the way they look with just a drilled hole- not nearly as elegant as the swelled dimple surrounding the screw head.My current hook stock is 1/4 round. I have ruined many hooks and the last couple days I have just been trying to get the dimple BEFORE making the hooks.
I can't even look them up on google or Utube cause I don't know what they are called.
The hook making demos and vids all stop when the hook is done and don't show how the dimple is made.
Dave
Hi Dave come to hammer in If you can I will help you with this. The ball puch is the ticket.
Bill
1:18 pm
NWBA Member
January 19, 2011
Offline
Bill
2:00 pm
NWBA Member
March 22, 2011
Offline
Wayne Coe;17416 wrote: use a ball pien hammer. You might want to heat the face of the ball pien hammer to normalize the hardened face for safety's sake.
It seems I use the 2 middle sizes the most of my cheap ball pein 4 hammer set that I normalized the faces and turned into top tools.
as always
peace and love
billyO
7:55 pm
NWBA Member
August 8, 2010
Offline
I will try the round punch today.
I thought about softening a hammer face but won't that burn up the handle?
Thanks to all
Dave
Dave
No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin
11:11 pm
June 24, 2010
Offline
The "right" way would to remove the handle before heating the face. But you might be able to get the face soft enough by submerging the pein end up past the handle in water and heating just the face with a torch.
Or do what I do, and just leave the face as-is and strike with a brass hammer.
12:39 am
April 7, 2011
Offline
Wrap the handle and eye area in a wet towel clamp it in a vise then heat the face with a torch. Be sure to keep the towel wet. It will dry out quickly.
Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
669 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
423-628-6444
[EMAIL=waynecoe@highland.net]waynecoe@highland.net[/EMAIL]
http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com
2:26 am
NWBA Member
March 22, 2011
Offline
On the large one, I used my forge and only put the face in the small opening so the surface 1/8" got red but the handle on that one smoked a bit even though I kept the handle as wet as possible. On the medium sized one I used a torch and that worked well. On my smallest one, I heated up a piece of 1" plate to bright orange and then set the hammer face on the plate and drew a temper that way with no smoking of the handle.
as always
peace and love
billyO
4:04 am
NWBA Member
August 8, 2010
Offline
I tried the punch and my smallest ball pein- both were hard to get centered and did not leave a round hole. I am still working with 1/4 inch round stock.
I have a guillotine and was using that with fullering dies. That was the closest I have come to what I want, but it isn't a round hole- just squished sideways instead of all the way round.
These are a couple pics from Uri- and I know these are slit and drifted or punched- but you can see the shape I am after...
Will add the pics in a minute---
Dave
No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin
4:26 am
NWBA Member
August 8, 2010
Offline
I know that these are split and drifted, but this is the look I am after... the hole is actually bigger than the parent stock- but my stock is only 1/4 inch round....
Any suggestions???
Dave
No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin
3:53 pm
NWBA Member
March 22, 2011
Offline
Maybe I'm not understanding, but if you want the hole to be as big as the parent stock (1/4"?) then you need to punch/slit and drift, or use the bob to create a dimple before making the hole. If it didn't work, do you need to upset some to give you more material to work with around the hole?
Or, perhaps using a center punch to mark the hole, then a few progressively larger bobs (am I the only one to use this term? and if not, am I using it wrong?) to push the material out to give the bulge.
The center punch should help to keep you centered on the stock (was that redundant?)
If you're working round stock, are you using a swage block or something to keep it from rolling when you strike? That's possibly the most likely reason for them to be an off-centered product :angel:. I'd approach it like I was slitting/drifting a hole for a hammer. Constant checking of progress with re-centering/alignment of the tool between many blows to shape/move the material where you want instead of trying to move it all with one blow.
PS- To Mr. Nelson, Aspery, Brazeal and others of that calibre, feel free to ignore my advice and continue using only one blow for your work. I'm still trying to figure out how y'all seem to sometimes move the material without ANY blows...
as always
peace and love
billyO
3:57 pm
NWBA Member
March 22, 2011
Offline
D_Evans;17433 wrote: I tried the punch and my smallest ball pein- both were hard to get centered and did not leave a round hole.
Did you punch the hole first of squish the dimple? (I'd squish the dimple with the ball pein first)
as always
peace and love
billyO
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