4:08 pm
September 6, 2010
Here are some photos of my knife vise that I made. The swivel ball is a trailer ball. I got the trailer ball swivel set up at one of the NWBA conferences. The top part of the vise is aluminum and plastic that a friend made up in his machine shop. Originally it had Allen screws to tighten down onto the blade or tang and had a solid bar of aluminum you could clamp in your vise. I converted it to a quick release set up using bicycle quick release levers. Plus added the swivel set up. It works great and you can move it to any position and clamp the knife in tight and quickly.
5:47 pm
NWBA Member
August 8, 2010
GREAT job! I love tools for holding work securely and quickly.
Dave
No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin
2:50 pm
September 6, 2010
6:53 am
March 21, 2011
4:02 pm
September 6, 2010
The inside of the fork is rounded to match the ball. If you notice the one side of the fork is held on with a pin in the bottom so it hinges a little to allow clamping. I didn't make it I bought it frum a man at the NWBA. He said he got the plans on a machinist fourm as I remember. I think there would be other ways of making the forks have the right amount of give to tighten up on the ball. I also think you could forge in the dished area for the ball.
8:16 am
March 21, 2011
5:09 pm
September 6, 2010
ya I have ben macking all wood self bows for over 20 years. I only got into blacksmithing and bladesmithing in the past 4 or 5 years. It is sumtimes a little hard to do the two out of the same shop. I always have to sweep up wood shavings and dust before forging so I forge for a few days or make bows for a few days but never on the same day. the staves are yew and ocean spray and servic beary.
4:59 am
March 21, 2011
steve m;14487 wrote: ....the staves are yew and ocean spray and service berry.
I had often heard about yew being used for bows but it wasn't until recently that I learned about meadowsweet ocean spray (Indian iron wood) and Serviceberry. I thought the ocean spray was mainly used for arrow shafts. Most of the shrubs in my area have few stems that I would have thought large enough for a bow.
Do you have any special procedure for seasoning the wood - preventing cracks. Do you work it green or after it's been seasoned.
4:57 am
September 6, 2010
Hay tom ya the native americans around hear used ocean spray for arrows but I have seen and have bows that they made out of it also. It is very strong for its size and you can get bows of 50 to 60 # out of stuff that is 1" in diamater. It is hard to dry becouse it has a pith and will crack to the pith if you arn't carfull. I usualy cut it down to the pith with a band saw when green then seal the exposed wood with carpenters glue then dry. You can find larger diameter ocean spray in short sections of 36 to 40" then cut down the midle and splice together at the handel to make longer bows. My faverat hunting bow is made this way and pulls 55# at 26" draw.
5:46 am
March 21, 2011
2:11 am
NWBA Member
November 14, 2010
Steve, I like your idea for a swivel vise, but have serious missgivings about a blade fixed out in the isle with no protection around it. My first exposure to this scenario was in Jr. High shop class making metal spatulas for frying. While sharpening the leading edge one kid got distracted and bumped his bicep into it and that was the first time I actually saw deep inside the human body. fixed like that there is no give except the living tissue you impale on it. Have since then heard of several bladesmiths impaling themselves and one who dropped something and after bending over to pick it up came up under the blade and layed his head open. I would suggest an under blade piece to support the blade better, and protect you from a very nasty accident. Check out Wayne Goddards books for similar under blade people protection. Remember Murphy is always lurking around the shop for a moment of distraction or tiredness to strike. Be Safe friend.
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