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4 x 4 x 1 plates with 7/8 square hole in Center
June 21, 2012
2:29 am
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D_Evans
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I want to buy 4 of these for use in my shop.
Anyone feel like doing them?
Thanks,
Dave

Dave

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http://WinDancerKnives.com

June 21, 2012
12:46 pm
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Gene C
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mild steel??

may be easier to flame cut or plasma cut

June 21, 2012
1:25 pm
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Bruce Macmillan
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Gene C;15651 wrote: mild steel??

may be easier to flame cut or plasma cut

You crazy dude....:smug:.....With an ironworker it will take longer to change the punch than it will to shear and punch 4 of em' out of 4x1'' flat bar...........I could do it in 15 min and have the edges sanded smooth....Cool....Pop on over Dave!

"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
Dr. Seuss

June 21, 2012
3:24 pm
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Ries
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to punch a 7/8" hole in 1" plate, you need at least a 100 ton ironworker- thats a pretty big beast.
Larry probably has one that big, but I dont know who else does around here- mine is only 50 tons. The cute little vertical ironworker that Grant had was only 35 tons or so. Most medium size shops only have ironworkers in the 50 ton range.

Same thing with shearing 1". Takes a big machine.

If I needed those, I would probably order the blanks cut, either by saw or torch, from somebody like Everett Steel, then drill the holes.

But if you dont have a really big drill press (I use my milling machine) and a set of Silver and Deming drill bits up to 1", to step drill em, then just have em waterjet cut, if hole accuracy doesnt need to be too precise.
Bob Powell, out on Vashon, does waterjet cutting for artists, architects, and craftsmen every day, he's good, easy to work with, and reasonably priced.
Call him up, I bet his price will be good, and he can UPS them to you.
http://meadowcreature.com/waterjet/

June 21, 2012
4:17 pm
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Bruce Macmillan
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Not quite a 100 tons....But I didn't consider that you're not supposed to punch a smaller punch through thicker material and 1/8 over is pushin' it.....You could do it hot with less tonage but most places wouldn't do that. Laser probly would be the best.....

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"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
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June 21, 2012
6:50 pm
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Ries
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I always round up when it comes to ironworker capacity- but yeah, theoretically a 90 ton machine would have the oomph- but you are right, the punch would probably break trying to punch 7/8" in 1" plate. They dont like punching a hole smaller in diameter than the thickness.

Around here anyway, for cutting plate, it goes-

Oxy-fuel torch- cheapest- I use Everett Steel.

Plasma- next cheapest, but usually only good up to about 1 1/2" max. Even at 1 1/2", you are talking a 200 amp power supply, big as a fridge. And you get draft angles on the cut, too, unless they are using Hi-def machines, which start at something like 30 grand for the power supply.

Waterjet- next cheapest, but has draft angles on thicker material, so much beyond 1", it gets pretty wonky. But you can cut 6" granite with waterjet. I have my stainless steel base plates waterjet, works good with no HAZ.

Laser- consistently the most expensive, but requires massive power to cut thick plate- the commercial laser house I use has maximum thickness in steel of around a half inch, the really big laser cutter down in Auburn tops out at 3/4" in steel. Laser is great for thin stuff, but for thick plate, nothing beats a giant, ancient, oxy-acetylene burning table.

June 21, 2012
7:39 pm
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Rob F
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come on guys, he needs 4 (four) of them, any little harbor freight bandsaw or better will easily cut out of flat bar and dosn't anyone have a hand held cutting torch? I could do that in 1/2 hr down here in cali.

June 21, 2012
8:11 pm
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Bruce Crittenden
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yes ,I would make the plates for you.call me to discuss price and shipping. bruce crittenden 360 437 2922

June 22, 2012
1:57 am
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billyO
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I know I'm a novice, and not sure what your tolerances are, Dave, but one thing I learned early in my smithing, there's no problem that can't be solved by brute forcde and ignorance, so here's my though. What would a smith have done 100 yrs ago? Isn't it possible to use heat and a chisel to hot cut in 1/2 way from each side, pop out the slug then hot rasp/file to desired finish?

or maybe that's all I have to draw on...brute force and plenty of ignorance....

as always

peace and love

billyO

June 22, 2012
2:10 am
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D_Evans
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Yeah, just from mild steel.
Guess I thought there would be several folks able to punch them... didn't realize the required machine was so large.
Ignorance is bliss sometimes 🙂
Dave

Dave

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- Mignon McLaughlin

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June 22, 2012
2:51 am
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Rob F
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generally you do not punch a hole that is smaller than the material is thick.

June 22, 2012
3:11 am
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Steve H
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We've got a 100 ton Muncher here in Ballard. I've only got a 25/32" sq. though.

Round punches you can get for 20 to 40$ each. Squares and oblongs get spendy, approx 150$ for a pair.

They only remember you when you SCREW UP~!!!

June 22, 2012
4:04 am
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Gene C
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If no way to cut big stock, you could fabricate from 7/8 or 1 inch stock, weld it up, square hole in the middle.

Lots of way to skin a cat or dog.

June 22, 2012
1:44 pm
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Ries
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There is no question that you could cut this on a pretty cheap, small bandsaw- assuming you had a scrap of 1" x 4" flat bar sitting around. But once you start needing to cut it from plate, most people would be cutting it with a torch.
I dont have any scrap 1" plate, so for me to do a job like this, as a job, means buying some. Aint practical for less than real money.

As mentioned above, cold punching this size hole in that thickness plate doesnt work.
Hot punching would work.
Or drilling.
I have drilled a lot of stuff like this- you either use an annular carbide hole saw, which costs around 40 bucks, and needs to be used in either a mag drill or a really big drill press, or you step drill with S&D bits. Step drilling is slow, annular cutters can break if you dont have a rigid setup. Aint no free lunch.

Sometimes things that seem really simple on paper, are just not so simple in real life. If I absolutely had to make these for a paying customer, I would probably lose money. If I needed em for a job, I would have em waterjet cut, most likely, as its cheaper than me driving into town, finding a piece of scrap that is undoubtedly bigger than I really need, cutting, grinding, drilling, and ending up with way too much time into something that should be cheap and simple.

Now if you had the exact right scrap lying around, then it might be easier.

June 22, 2012
2:45 pm
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JNewman
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I don't see in the post how accurate these need to be. The place I get to flame cut things plate could cut a pretty reasonable square hole, and they will cut plate to my drawing usually cheaper than I can buy misc scraps of plate from my local steel yard. The finish from any of the other processes would be much nicer but also quite a bit more expensive. Your waterjet guy must be cheap Ries because usually laser is cheaper than waterjet. Depending on how flat the plates need to be, if the flame cut hole would not do I would either hot punch them or drill to 3/4" and then drift to 7/8 square. Drilling would help ensure the hole is square to the plate and would be easier if you did not have a power hammer. .

June 22, 2012
5:03 pm
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Ries
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John, I guess these things must vary a lot regionally. I dont know of any local laser shops around here that will even cut 1". I am sure there must be one, but most of the local shops I do know of have much smaller machines, and, as I said, top out at 1/2" or 3/4" in steel.

And, every time I have gotten price quotes around here, laser has usually run significantly more than waterjet- I use a couple different waterjet shops, and that price differential is consistent. In fact, one shop I use, Cutters, Inc, in Bellingham, has both a waterjet and a laser on the floor- and so all other factors are equal. They have always waterjet cut my stuff, and I see the laser there running thin sheet when I am in there. The laser is more accurate, but the basic machine cost at least double what the waterjet machine cost, so they bill it for more per hour, to cover its keep.

I would agree that, usually, I can have parts torch cut for less than I would pay for material alone, especially when you consider that I must buy the scrap too if I buy a bigger piece and cut it out.

Basically, if this guy lived ten miles from me, I could probably knock these out for him, but he lives 2 1/2 hours away, and thats on a good traffic day, and, for me, the psychological factor of long distance usually means higher prices and more hassle. I do plenty of local favors, my karma is still intact.
Now dave, if you wanna drive up, and buy me lunch, we could do em in an hour or so- but we would have to buy some 1" plate at Skagit River Steel first...

June 22, 2012
5:20 pm
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Bruce Crittenden
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sorry d evans .for some reason , probably my limited computer skills , i could not reply to our privite measage.please call me or ill get my misses to help me later....... sorry best regards B crittenden.

June 22, 2012
10:47 pm
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D_Evans
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Wish it weren't so far, Ries, I would be happy to buy lunch and even more would like to see your shop and have a chance to visit with you. My old hot rod truck gets 6 MPG and I don't drive much beyond Olympia.
Thanks, tho 🙂
Dave

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

June 23, 2012
2:00 am
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D_Evans
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Bruce and I have reached a satisfactory deal.
I learned a lot through this whole thread.
Thanks to all for the info and the suggestions.
You guys are the best!

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

June 23, 2012
3:52 pm
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Rob F
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1" square hole through 3" plate. Hate to send off-site but some good info here relevant to this thread.
http://www.iforgeiron.com/topi.....ound-hole/

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