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Calipers
March 9, 2011
6:50 pm
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Lewis
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I made these 14" wing calipers for the auction at the Forging on the River conference at the Metal Museum in Memphis. I spent a couple of years in the shop there, so I'm trying to give a little back. I'm thrilled with how they turned out.
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Calipers! by fciron, on Flickr

I made gravers and my own spiral/rope knurls for the little adjusting knobs.

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Look, you can see the little teeth forming. by fciron, on Flickr

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A spiral knurl by fciron, on Flickr

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A knurling fool by fciron, on Flickr

March 10, 2011
2:00 am
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Larry L
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Boy those are beautiful. Roughly how long would it take you to make a set like that?

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

March 10, 2011
2:59 am
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Lewis
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Thanks, I'm thrilled with how they came out.

Hard to judge from the first pair: I probably have 12 hours in on this. However, I have half a dozen more knobs already made up and made the knurls and gravers in that time. There's also several hours of accumulated head scratching and contemplation. I think if I did four pairs at once they would be about three hours each.

There were lots of fumbly things, like how to drift the slot in the box joint, that required several tries. (It's just a slot, so the drift keeps falling out.) So I wouldn't have the experimental/tool-making time and I would spread out some of the other costs over four sets. (I usually need a lunch break between forging and other work. I can forge all day if necessary, but I can't stop and go straight to something else. So one pair or four pairs I still only need to make the transition once.)

Of course, what I really want to make is a big pair of dividers with tool steel tips forge welded in. Those won't be ready for this auction because I have some actual paying work to do.

A look at the forged box joint. I'm probably drawing on Donald Streeter's book "Professional Smithing" for most of this project.

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Both sides of box joint formed. by fciron, on Flickr

March 10, 2011
3:31 am
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Steve H
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Nice job, I was gonna say Streeter, too. Clean like him or Peter ross. I'm not there with the knurls or threading yet on the lathe but projects like this give me impetus to try.

They only remember you when you SCREW UP~!!!

March 10, 2011
3:39 am
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Lewis
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Cybo,

Here's a link to making the knurls: http://www.practicalmachinist......es-212670/ No threading required. Carving the knobs ought to be easier than shoving that sharpened bearing into your rivet header. Maybe not easier, but less scary.

March 10, 2011
4:43 am
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Lee Cordochorea
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Lewis;8450 wrote: I'm thrilled with how they turned out.

And well you should be. Thats darn nice instrumentation you've made!

No matter where you go... there you are.

March 11, 2011
2:13 am
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Mike B
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Lewis,

The dividers are breathtaking, and having just bought a mini-lathe, I'm interested in the knurl as well. What kind of steel did you make it from? Did you heat treat it?

And since I'm a little (maybe a lot) slow sometimes, what were the gravers needed for?

Finally, did you think about making the box joint in the middle of a bar and then cutting off what you didn't need after drifting? Seems like it might be easier than making a jig to hold the drift in place.

March 11, 2011
9:59 am
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Lewis
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Thanks, Mike.

The knurls were made from some 1" w-1 drill rod (0.95% straight carbon steel) that I had left over in the shop. Hardened in a water quench and tossed in the kitchen oven at 400 degrees for an hour or so. (I meant to peek and pull them out at a nice golden brown, but I got distracted.) I posted a link to the forum where I saw this earlier in the thread.

(Don't mention your mini-lathe on Practical Machinist, the owner is very focused on "professionals" but it's one of the most informational sites I've found. If you've got questions specific to your mini-lathe you want to ask them at http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net)

The gravers can be used to hand turn things in the lathe, similar to the way wood-turners work. It seemed like the most flexible way to get curved forms for the knobs and is a technique I have been meaning to try for a while anyhow. I probably could have ground a couple of form tools to do the same thing, but I was running out of tool-holders for my quick change tool post. Searching for 'watchmaker's lathe' will get more information on them.

I did think about punching the box joint. I thought about it while I was draw-filing the finished piece. :p I didn't build a fixture for the split joint, I just had to figure out how to hold all of the parts. I'm still thinking about how I will do it next time. Punching is its own fixture to hold the jig, but I worry about the 'pull-through' thinning the bar and I'm a little concerned about burrs or fins inside the joint.

March 11, 2011
6:28 pm
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Danger
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Very nice work there Lewis, thanks for the tip on knurls, I may have to give that a go.

Michael Dillon
http://dillonforge.com/

March 12, 2011
12:11 am
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Mike B
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Thanks, Lewis. I knew there were a number of machinist sites out there, but wasn't sure where to start. And I thought gravers were only something you engraved with. Your post is very helpful.

March 12, 2011
1:25 pm
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Lewis
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Mike, happy to help. "Tell" is my favorite part of Show and Tell. :giggle:

March 28, 2011
6:00 am
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Stretch
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Nice job on the calipers Lewis. I like the little knurled pieces. I just lost the knurled piece on an old pair of calipers. Will have to give it a try and replace it.
Thanks

March 29, 2011
12:08 am
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Lewis
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Well, they were sold in the Metal Museum auction on Saturday night for 4-1/2 hours of my shop rate. I guess I'm going to have to raise my prices. :devil:

Brian Russel built a really fantastic little garden gate too. I'm all fired up to get out to the shop and finish my forge-welded willow railing now. (Brian Russel from England, not Brian Russel who imported the Sahinler hammers.)

Thanks, Stretch. Just give a shout if you've got questions.

September 5, 2011
6:26 pm
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Mike B
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Lewis,

Thanks again for explaining the knurling process. I've put it to use.

I did have trouble with the knurl sometimes starting the second rotation offset, so that the finished piece comes out twice as fine as it should. But at least I got two of each, so I can always claim I did it on purpose.:giggle:

The "gears" are made the same way as the knurls you showed. I didn't want turning the corkscrew to mess up the arms' alignment. When I made the gears, I angled the blank so the teeth on the tap cut straight across. What look like threads on the shaft are actually a series of parallel grooves. I cut the gears with a 3/6-16 tap; the 16 TPI lead screw on my mini-lathe made indexing the grooves easy.

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September 5, 2011
8:02 pm
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Lewis
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Mike, that is awesome. I hope you enjoy using it. That's way cooler than would have thought of.

Yea, I got that double thing coming around on the second pass too. I suppose one could do the math to accurately size the blank, but you'd start cutting from the overall size instead of the pitch circle anyway, so it might not help. I've just used a single knurl roller pressed against the side of the work, did you need two for a pinch/scissors-type knurler or just to fit a commercial knurl holder?

September 5, 2011
10:38 pm
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Mike B
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Thanks, Lewis.

My post wasn't clear about the double thing. The (single) knurl I made, as well as the "gears," came out okay. But when I used the tool to make the brass nuts for the cork screw, two of the four came out with a finer pattern (there's a coarse and a fine on the back as well).

September 6, 2011
5:03 pm
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Lewis
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Oh, yeah. Now I see it in your picture. Next time don't tell anyone. :happy:

September 6, 2011
9:33 pm
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Tom Allyn
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Very fine work by both of you. I'm literally blown away.
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