4:20 am
March 18, 2010
Thanks for showing us the progression David. Makes it all the more impressive and yet simple when broken down into components. It's the combination that often intimidate the beginner; designing a complex structure and then breaking down into sections and then individual components. The overall design is the most amazing part to me, it looks like it grew there.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
4:26 am
March 18, 2010
Glad to see you making such good use of the induction. Everyone, I mean absolutely everyone, says they never imagined how much they would use it. You find all kinds of ways to make it work and really get spoiled. Have you played with any "pancake" type coils?
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
9:11 pm
December 19, 2010
10:34 pm
March 26, 2010
Thanks all for the compliments.
I guess with something like this it's difficult for me to see it as it is ... I've been at it for the last few months so only realy see the how it was made.
It was quite good project in that I never really got bored with it. Sometimes there comes a point with larger work where the drudge factor goes up a few notches as you get into it. With this one there always seemed to be enough head scratching, experimenting, reverse engineering etc etc to keep me interested. Also it was quite a stress free project in that there was enough adjustment built into it so none of the measurements were really critical. Going around the drainpipe and curved bit meant a bit of planning ahead
10:48 pm
March 26, 2010
Ries;10959 wrote:
Is it hot dip galvanized?
Spot on there Ries. I tried to get them to go with electropolished stainless with copper leaves but they wouldn't bite with the cost.
I was originally going to paint this one but it would have been a crime to do so when I saw how it it looked with fresh galv. Kinda hoping it will still look "interesting" as the galv weathers.
11:03 pm
March 26, 2010
Lewis;10955 wrote: Looks great, David!
I was wondering why we hadn't heard from you lately. Looks like there were some very good reasons.
I guess the work was part the reason, the other was that I took on a workshop next door to do the tree but just couldn't bring myself to let go of that extra space. So .....i've been bogged down with all the usual time sucks that go with being self employed .......plus kitting out a second work shop.
It's only 600sq ft extra but I've been getting by for years in 400. Landlord wont let me do any hammering in the new workshop elsewise I'd have plonked a few hundred pounds of Massey in it.
It both good and bad having two workshops. Bad cos I'm for ever runnning back and forth between them looking for THAT tool .... or was it THAT one. Good cos I can keep all the dirty work like forging, grinding and spraying in the old one and use the new one for assembly and machining
11:18 pm
March 26, 2010
Lewis;10955 wrote: Looks great, David!
I am glad you integrated the arc welds into the design, I think there should be more of that. It seems silly to spend inordinate amount of times hiding some parts of the process and emphasizing others. Anything that lets the smith focus on making cool stuff is good by me.
Couldn't agree more Lewis. Most appropriate/ cost effective technique for the job is my approach. Be that water jet cutting, turning tenons on a lathe, induction heating, "forging a weld" .... hell, I can't forge weld to save my life.
I kinda guess very few of the "purists" actually earn a living from what they do.
Sometime an undressed mig weld is just the right process for the job. I made the "dragons" a few years back by making a rough frame work from bits of scrap (or sometimes forged sections) and then building up with as "blobby" mig weld as I could
11:24 pm
March 26, 2010
Grant;11006 wrote: Glad to see you making such good use of the induction. Everyone, I mean absolutely everyone, says they never imagined how much they would use it. You find all kinds of ways to make it work and really get spoiled. Have you played with any "pancake" type coils?
I made a flat one Grant but haven't really had much call to use it ..... yet. That said, I do like the idea of the pancake ones you showed that "curl" round a bar so as you can get them on the middle of a bar. Gonna try one this week some time
3:14 pm
January 18, 2011
david hyde;11018 wrote: Couldn't agree more Lewis. Most appropriate/ cost effective technique for the job is my approach. Be that water jet cutting, turning tenons on a lathe, induction heating, "forging a weld" .... hell, I can't forge weld to save my life.
I kinda guess very few of the "purists" actually earn a living from what they do.
.... A good friend of mine back in the 80's is/was a rabid purist. we were talking about projects one day over a beer and he told me of a spec house railing he had just finished....He showed me a sample, with rivets, collars, and forge welds........Really nice work, but he said the contractor wouldn't pop for $160 PF......That was too little even back then. So I asked, did you cut back on the hand work to get the work? (which he was desperate for) No, he said I did it RIGHT...........Can you spot me a 50? He later told me the contractor sold the house and the buyers were very taken with the rail and it was a big factor in their decision....bfd......My friend is a great smith and Francis Whitaker would often have him strike at demos.
On the other hand I've known guys who do nothing but but texture bar, cut, weld and think of themselves as ''blacksmiths'', who are not successful...
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
3:22 pm
August 30, 2010
Nice work David. My son lives in Manchester so I get up there quite a bit, I will keep my eye out for it. Did you texture it hot or cold? with the press, PH or fly?
What was the largest dia solid you used or the smallest dia "tube"?
I want to try a small "bonsai" version but knowing me, it will likely turn out "giant redwood" and living in the garden instead of the window sill.
Anyway I am interested in your texture dies, I have just finished a hydraulic press and want an excuse to try it.
3:43 pm
September 7, 2010
7:54 am
March 26, 2010
David Edgar;11130 wrote: Nice work David. My son lives in Manchester so I get up there quite a bit, I will keep my eye out for it. Did you texture it hot or cold? with the press, PH or fly?
What was the largest dia solid you used or the smallest dia "tube"?
I want to try a small "bonsai" version but knowing me, it will likely turn out "giant redwood" and living in the garden instead of the window sill.
Anyway I am interested in your texture dies, I have just finished a hydraulic press and want an excuse to try it.
David, the tree is on a building called "Afflecks Palace" on Tibb st/ Church St near Picadilly
Just about all of the trunk was made from 1.5mm sheet textured hot on a Kinyon hammer ...pilot valve set low to give very rapid light blows. I did start off forging a few bits of tube from 22mm to 42mm o/d but I couldn't get the depth/ type of texture I wanted (and weight became an issue) so I abandoned the idea and went over to rolling up sheet. That said, the leaf stems are 10mm solid withe the occassional bit of 22mm tube
The problem with textureing tube or solid is (even with it supported it a V bolster) is you only get straight line areas of contact so I couldn't get the wavey texture I wanted. I guess I could have made concave textured dies/ bolsters but it was easier to use sheet.
The great advantage of bolt on dies is it's real easy to throw together experimental dies and then evolve them. I used chunks of En24 (4340) welded to backing plates. They were textured with an angle grinder and then refined/ smoothed out using various Dynabrades/ contact arms. Without the smoothing, the sheet tends to "stick" into the grooves in the dies. Because of the amount of use they would get I heat treated the final versions "by the book" using a recently aquired small potters kiln. They've stood up real well.
8:11 am
March 26, 2010
ianinsa;11144 wrote:
and you did'nt even automate that fly-press.
Thanks Ian
Automated fly press .... now that would be a friction screw press. Boy would I love one. I'm not quite sure what I'd use it for but boy would I love one.
5:22 pm
August 5, 2010
8:35 pm
NWBA Member
June 17, 2010
11:06 am
September 7, 2010
david hyde;11150 wrote: Thanks Ian
Automated fly press .... now that would be a friction screw press. Boy would I love one. I'm not quite sure what I'd use it for but boy would I love one.
Naw, on one job we had with lots of fly-press for texturing use(all the esentric presses were busy) I rigged up an air cylinder on pivot bushes/bearings(I think thats the term) on the arm. I connected a air foot pedal giving a 1/3 rotation on the fly press. Worked a dream for the 2 weeks we needed it. Also added a piece of high density foam under the base die wich helped to give some variation!
Ian
6:48 pm
January 15, 2011
Amazing piece, you should be very proud. Just awesome !
10:21 pm
August 5, 2010
9:19 am
March 26, 2010
John N;11319 wrote: went and had a good looksy at the tree tonight, **** fantastic *******
Was nice watching peoples reactions as they walked past, most doing a double take and muttering 'wow' and walking on !
the verdigris sign was missing though.
Hi John!
It's big isn't it 🙂
The council got real arsey about the sign. They didn't like the size and consider it avertising. I needed planning permission for the tree and the say they hadn't given planning permission for the sign. I can put a sign up that says "sculpture by Verdigris" but not the .co.uk. Fortunately the my site seems to come up quite high on Google just typing "Verdigris"
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