4:50 pm
February 15, 2012
I have a small coal forge with a pump-blower underneath. I managed to get the anthracite coal started using lump coal as a starter. I was able to get my forged chain tensioner un-bent by heating to a soft red and beating it back into shape, but I am having trouble getting the forge hot enough for straightening out a truck coil spring. I am thinking about rigging up some electric blower to really get the forge hot. Here are some pics:
4:54 pm
February 15, 2012
Scott Lee;14873 wrote: I have a small coal forge with a pump-blower underneath. I managed to get the anthracite coal started using lump coal as a starter. I was able to get my forged chain tensioner un-bent by heating to a soft red and beating it back into shape, but I am having trouble getting the forge hot enough for straightening out a truck coil spring. I am thinking about rigging up some electric blower to really get the forge hot. Here are some pics:
I also need some tips on how I should re-harden the chain tensioner I just straightened the handle on. Any thoughts?? Please see pic.
11:04 pm
September 24, 2010
You know, to each his own - but a load binder is probably not something you should be trying to reuse after it's been damaged and straightened. If I was going to use it, I would not reharden - just let it bend again if it happens.
That little forge is not designed for a huge fire; they were made for small work and the occasional horseshoe. The pot is not large so adding an electric blower won't do a whole lot to making the fire larger. You might try piling fuel up a little more and letting the fire get deeper.
11:36 pm
February 15, 2012
Thanks. I will probably just use the chain tensioner for light duty. It was my first ever blacksmithing job. Ever.
I have also heard that some guys don't clay-liny the forge which gives you more depth and area. But I do think a less clunky and more efficient blower system could increase my core temps a lot more...I spend most of my time pumping that handle and it really just creates a light breeze through my forge. And it really is noisy on the upswing!:happy:
5:23 am
NWBA Member
August 7, 2010
Good Morning,
A propane fire work well for straightening a coil spring. Heat up the spring completely, put a pipe or long pin in the Hardy hole or Post vice, to support the complete coil spring. When the coil is hot, have someone control the pin holding the coil that is red/orange hot. Grab one end of the coil spring and RUN away from it. One coil spring will be about 15 feet long (8 anyway!!).
It is possible in a coil fire, but it is not as easy.
Neil
As long as we are above our shoes, We know where we are.:happy:
5:36 am
March 22, 2010
10:48 am
February 15, 2012
I just had a bit of a revelation (not sure if it's from God or the Devil, though): I could build a makeshift coil spring coal furnace over my existing tuyere using fire brick and mount an electric blower on the underside of the forge through the existing blower cleanout hole. The firebrick enclosure can be whatever size the coil is I'm working on at the time, and can be deconstructed after use. I could still use my small forge without spending any real money for a bigger forge, and I wouldn't be making any permanent changes to a historically correct antique forge.
What do you think? Any major holes in my design concept?
4:38 pm
NWBA Member
August 7, 2010
Good Morning,
You are on the right track, but, make your enclosure with fire-brick and make a propane burner. There are lots of different designs, see Anvil-fire, Iforeiron, Riel Burners, etc. If you come to the NWBA Spring Conference, I will help you with designs.
You can cut a couple coils of the spring and use the small coal forge to heat them, parts at a time. Hook one end in the Hardy Hole, find a piece of pipe that fits over the wire diameter and voila "A coil Unwrapper".
Neil
As long as we are above our shoes, We know where we are.:happy:
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