6:30 pm
There is a chance that L Brand" ® will have a container of 50 LB bags on pallets shipped to Vancouver, WA.
If the container is filled, the delivered price in Vancouver, WA will be in the $525 to $550 per ton range.
Let me know if you have any interest in this proposal.
Ed Avolio, Owner, GrayStar® Products®, makers of "L Brand"® ForgeCoke®, 678-360-3521, 1155 Settles Pointe, Suwanee, GA 30024-4270. *Trademark
Fairly good fuel. fairly cheap.
perfect for your new side draft forge.
PS do you get piping cause it ain't hot enough?
Here's you solution.
COKE! Fresh Coke.
come and get it
COKE or sale. baggies sold by the tonne. 50LBers
Or possibly.
2:50 am
NWBA Member
Board Member
April 26, 2010
4:04 pm
December 1, 2010
I've been checking into costs for a 12 tonne load from England. Monkton forge beans, just about as good as it gets and hands down better than anything you will ever see stateside.
Clean, dry, graded for size and burns great- little dust, small clinker.
If there is enough interest I can get a quote for a container to be shipped to the US. I think it would be more expensive than l-brand or equivalent, but really worth the cost.
spread the word.
4:27 pm
May 13, 2010
I think there may be interest here in Ontario as well Jake. There was a local source of coke that was reasonably high quality and cheap. A lot of the guys got used to it and appreciated the lack of smoke. Currently there is a source here in Hamilton but the size is too large and quality is hit and miss.
2:43 am
December 1, 2010
1:24 pm
May 13, 2010
6:20 pm
March 26, 2010
I rarely, if ever use my water cooled side blast (nods to Jack) forge; the induction heater, various gas forges and oxypropane torch (and a potential future ribbon burner) saw to that) ...... but as a bona fide Limey I can totally recomend Monkton beans from the days when being "pure" was more important than earning a living. Seriously though, it's good stuff.
7:12 pm
May 13, 2010
david hyde;6806 wrote: I rarely, if ever use my water cooled side blast (nods to Jack) forge; the induction heater, various gas forges and oxypropane torch (and a potential future ribbon burner) saw to that) ...... but as a bona fide Limey I can totally recomend Monkton beans from the days when being "pure" was more important than earning a living. Seriously though, it's good stuff.
I rarely use coal myself these days. But there is the odd job that the coal/coke works better for here. I use coal to point some bars that I use for some hooks and also for swaging the ends of firepot clinker breaker handles. Both of these jobs I want a short heat on the end of the bar and induction would probably work better.
I used coal to punch and drift and then work out the eye on the eye bolts I just did again so I could keep the heat out of the shank so I could keep it straight as I was working on the eye. I am not sure if an induction forge would work well for that as the shape was changing so much I wonder if I would spend all my time changing coils. Anybody have any input on how well an induction heater would work for that?? Or suggestions for keeping a short heat out of what is essentially a gas tunnel forge?
The coal forge takes up a lot of space and I would love to get rid of it.
8:10 pm
March 26, 2010
John
Having got used to my induction heater(and loving it) I'd say there's not much that it can't do that a big rosebud with oxy propane and some hard insulation bricks won't do .... if you can put up with the noise and HEAT pumped into the workshop, and maybe the cost of the gases.
Before I got inducted I used to do 99% of my upsetting with a rosebud; much quicker and more controllable than a coke forge ..... if you can put up with the scaling (my work is "arty"so scale generally isn't an issue with me.
Re changing coils, the more powerfull the machine, the more loose the electromagnetic coupling between the coil and the work you can put up with (ie a big gap between coil and work). Mines a 25kVAand I find I use a 3 turn rectangular coil about 2.5 by 1.5 inches as a general purpose coil. Wiggling work back and forwards you can get a reasonable heat on a lot of x sections relatively quickly and can also pass a lot of the wiggly wiggly organic stuff I sometimes do through it.
.... less burning of tips and pointed things with an induction heater
8:26 pm
May 13, 2010
I am doing more and more with a big oxy propane rosebud as well for really short heats or more importantly for awkward pieces of steel. Such as 15' long pieces of 3/4" pipe or 22' long pieces of 5/8 round bar. I just recently bought a gas saver valve and am really impressed with how much easier it makes working with a big rosebud, and in one job I saved a tank and a half of Oxygen which almost payed for the valve.
11:19 pm
March 26, 2010
david hyde;6813 wrote: John
Having got used to my induction heater(and loving it) I'd say there's not much that it can't do that a big rosebud with oxy propane and some hard insulation bricks won't do .... if you can put up with the noise and HEAT pumped into the workshop, and maybe the cost of the gases.
OOPS meant to say it the other way round, the rosebud will do most things an induction will do, just a LOT noiser and wasteful of gas. I guess the induction can give tighter heats though but it sure would be a ball ache passing a 20' bar through a coil to heat the middle, oxy propane kinda comes into it's own there.
Those ecomoisers sure are a must for us selfemployed work alone types with only two hands....
5:54 am
NWBA Member
Board Member
April 26, 2010
5:07 pm
May 30, 2010
6:07 pm
LOL folks. I just posted the note for L brand but have a couple of tons I'm working on.
BEANS MEANS MONKTON.
but for L brand call Ed Avolio at the number and see where he's at.I think there is a guy that waits till the load is sold and then drives out from the east coast.
Anyone driving west from the east might well think of contacting western smiths when they are taking a trailer. we don't have coal mountains here ( that are worth sh)
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