7:25 pm
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
8:10 pm
November 4, 2010
8:15 pm
March 18, 2010
I've used a number of different products. They all have worked. So I just buy what I find. I did have one many years ago that I particularly liked called "Refracrete". Not only was it castable, but it was moldable. Most of the castables need to be in a form or they slump. Currently use "Cast-o-lite" 'cause that's what the ceramics place has.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
8:22 pm
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
8:32 pm
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
Grant,
This is the first I've heard of "Refracrete". Is that the material you used in your lightweight forge shells?
The local Tacoma supplier has two 3000 deg. products available. "Kast-o Lite" and "Mizzou". He says he can get others with advance notice. They are ordering "Greenlite" for another costomer this week, I don't think it will withstand forge temp.
thanks,
Jeff Wilson
Poulsbo, WA
My son is the Blacksmith
8:47 pm
March 18, 2010
8:51 pm
November 4, 2010
I have only made them with ceramic fiber with a thin castable lining. If I were going to go all castable I'd use one of the insulating castables like Kast-O-Lite (which will be about half as insulating per thickness as the fiber insulation). Mizzou is dense, hard and strong, but it's a very poor insulator. The "insulating" castables are about halfway between Mizzou and fiber.
8:52 pm
August 29, 2010
9:46 pm
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
9:56 pm
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
Grant,
I found a listing for "Refracrete" from NARCO. (NARCO, intresting acronyn that)
Last night I requested an account so that I could access the spec sheets for AP Green, Harbison-Walker and NARCO products. Havn't heard back as yet. It will be interesting to see their recommendations for the various products.
Jeff Wilson
Poulsbo, WA
West of Seattle
My son is the Blacksmith
10:07 pm
May 13, 2010
I have never used castable refractory but I have made moulds for refractory for the steel mills. Often they had a means of casting a hard internal shell then an insulating refractory poured around that. They use shortening liberally applied as a release. They also use a large vibratory table to make sure all the bubbles are vibrated out.
The shop I used to work at had some large moulds that they poured a two part foam into. The foam pieces then had refractory poured around them down at the steel mill. The foam was then gouged and burned out. I have often thought that making a plug out of insulating foam would be a good simple way of making a forge with a shape that would be difficult or impossible to slide a plug out of. Woodworking power tools work well on foam and allow you to work more accurately than using a razor knife.
10:16 pm
November 4, 2010
J Wilson;4400 wrote: Matt,
What materials are you using in your forge? Have you used two layers as you described?
The last propane forge I made was the newer, non-ceramic fiber blanket that (they say) will break down in the body, which I got off eBay from a company out your way. (http://stores.ebay.com/HIGH-TE.....TORY-STORE) I faced that with a layer of insulating castable refractory by Mount Savage, a relatively local company, which I was able to get at a boiler installation place near me. My only mistake was making the castable thicker than I meant to. (The one before that, I tried to get cute and make my own "insulating castable" from kaolin, sand and shredded styrofoam. I won't make that mistake again; not worth it. Commercial refractories are the way to go for this sort of thing.)
10:47 pm
NWBA Member
September 25, 2010
Jeff,
I am very interested in learning more when you get the data sheets. I am hoping to build a propane forge as my spring project. For now, I am waiting for my next pay day to go get materials to build a small charcoal forge to get me started. I also gotta re-assemble my Western Chief blower. 😀
Regards,
Tim
Let us make a special effort to stop communicating with each other, so we can have some conversation.
Mark Twain
10:58 pm
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
Matt,
How long have you been operating the forge with the "Body Fluid soluable" ceramic fiber blanket layer? What is your opionion of the performance? How did you anchor/apply the castable?
Do you know which castable you got from Mount Savage? Specs?
Jeff Wilson
Poulsbo, WA
My son is the Blacksmith
11:07 pm
NWBA Member
September 25, 2010
Jeff,
I am very interested in learning more when you get the data sheets. I am hoping to build a propane forge as my spring project. For now, I am waiting for my next pay day to go get materials to build a small charcoal forge to get me started. I also gotta re-assemble my Western Chief blower. 😀
Regards,
Tim
Let us make a special effort to stop communicating with each other, so we can have some conversation.
Mark Twain
11:09 pm
March 22, 2010
Was looking at Seattle pottery and found this page.
11:26 pm
April 21, 2010
11:43 pm
NWBA Member
July 9, 2010
Gene C;4414 wrote: Was looking at Seattle pottery and found this page.
Gene, Do you remember what you used in your forge?
Thanks for the link.
Jeff
Puolsbo, WA
My son is the Blacksmith
12:01 am
NWBA Member
September 25, 2010
Bill Cottrell;4415 wrote: Dave Lisch makes a lot of forges and he takes Mizzou and mixes it into a slurry. He then takes Kaowool (1" thick) and soaks it in the slurry. Then he lines his forges with the soaked Kaowool and lets it set up. He has a lot of happy customers out there with forges like this.
Ooooohh, I like that idea. 😀
Let us make a special effort to stop communicating with each other, so we can have some conversation.
Mark Twain
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