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Using an inert gas in a heat treat oven.
November 14, 2010
1:13 am
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JNewman
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I see in most of the commercially available electric heat treatment ovens there is an attachment so you can add an inert gas to the oven to limit scale and decarb. Has anyone tried this? do you need much gas flowing through? I would think you need enough to flush the Oxygen out of the furnace but then a very small flow would be enough till you reopen the door.
I wonder if this would be an alternative to using salt baths for occasional use with many of the advantages but without the dangers and maintenence requirements of high temp salts.

November 14, 2010
3:17 am
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Bill Cottrell
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I have a Paragon HT oven with that option. Tried it, and went back to using foil instead. To get enough coverage to prevent scaling I had to really pump in the argon. Stainless just worked out cheaper for me.

November 14, 2010
4:06 am
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Grant
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I used to put a quantity of charcoal in my electric heat treat furnace to reduce scale and de-carb.

“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~

November 14, 2010
2:50 pm
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JNewman
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Once again a simple STOCK answer Grant. Thanks Bill it was specifically the Paragons I had looked at, it is good to hear from someone who has tried it. Is there a reason you used argon rather than CO2? I see Paragon mentions argon on their website. I know that CO2 is not inert but if anything it might add a tiny bit of carbon and I think it is much cheaper.

Part of what got me thinking of this is several years ago our blacksmith association got a tour of a heat treatment facility that used long converyor furnaces doing production heat treating. Even with both ends open (there were small burners at each end to consume any O2 at the ends) stuff went in one end and came out the other end heat treated with no scale or oxide colours. They were also brazing in these furnaces, the pieces assembled and a small piece of copper alloy wire laid on with no flux. In one end of the furnace and out the other brazed. I forget what the blanket gas they were using was, I know they were generating it in house.

Bill are you happy with the Paragon Oven? I send out a lot of my heat treating where they use vaccum furnaces. But I have repeat job that they did wrong that I now do in house. It would be nice to have better process control for small jobs that are not worth the minimum charge at the heat treater or tools I need now.

November 14, 2010
5:29 pm
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Ries
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I know Jim Binnion uses an inert gas forge for some of his mokeme gane production.
A lot of his tricks are proprietary- that is, he doesnt necessarily share em all with the world- but he may be willing to discuss the inert gas end of things with you- you should email him directly and ask him about it. He is very nice, I just dont know if he wants to discuss something like this in public on a forum.

http://www.mokume-gane.com/

The other big Mokeme producer around here, Phil Baldwin at Shining Wave, still uses his molten salt bath for most things, but he keeps threatening to buy some kind of tunnel oven that uses inert gas.

Those two guys, between them, know a LOT about this subject, and if you ever get a chance to pick their brains in person, you could probably learn what you want to know

November 14, 2010
6:20 pm
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Robert Suter
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Using electric heat and gas barriers for heat treating sounds like a headache to me, in more ways than one. I understand exposure to high temperature for extended periods can cause improper grain structure growth, and I think controlling the temperature of parts of varying size in a gas would be far from easy so waiting for the parts to even out might be a problem. To be honest I’ve never been overly concerned about heat treating, but now that I’ve decided to get into knives I’ll need to pay attention.

I am intending to use an idea I had for HT knives until I can get some salt pots built. What I had in mind was placing salts in a tray and heating it within the forge. For reasonable temperature control I thought a pyrometer probe placed within the salts should work. Quenching could be done in a second tray with low temp. salts in an ordinary oven or in any preferred liquid. Seems like a doable scenario for me and perhaps others, the amount of salt used would be minimized and the danger of introducing water into the salts when in a hot forge would be small. Replacing small amounts of salt at a time when necessary would be much less painful on the pocket. You guys with experience, or anybody else for that matter, using salt baths see a problem with this idea?

it's been fun, later!

November 14, 2010
7:24 pm
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Bill Cottrell
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John I am very happy with my Paragon really. I just could not get an economical argon flow to work for me. I questioned Paragon about using argon and frankly they had no idea - it was like they just offered an option and could not give you a clue about how or even if it did work or not. I had not thought of co2 but would have to do a little research before I would want to try it. I really really like the controller on my oven.

Robert I urge you to do some thinking and research about HT methods. I don't think much of your idea of using salts inside a forge. First I don't think you could get the heat control you need unless you invested in a controller to manage that .Cost of salts is not high at all really. I purchased five gallons of salts and my pot is 4" diameter x 12 depth. That is not much out of a five gallon can and I have enough to last me the rest of my life still in the can.

November 14, 2010
7:43 pm
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Robert Suter
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Paragon is an old time kiln builder, they are using barrier gas to get a reducing atmosphere in an electric kiln for ceramic glazes. They know how to control kilns but probably have little knowledge of HT requirements. I don’t know if you have much mig welding experience but using pure CO2 will cause the weld to have less penetration, this is a good trick when welding thin sheets, as it will not ‘blow out’ the weld as easily.

EDIT please read: Bill I know you understand the dangers of using CO2 but I want to add a precaution about using CO2 for those who don’t. CO2 is heavier than air if you use it indoors and get below the level of the gas you may die, you cannot smell it you may not even know what is happening, most people just feel silly and then pass out, often followed by their funeral.

I intended to control the forge with the pyrometer in the salts, you must have missed that part or I mangled the words bad enough to obscure the meaning. As for the price of the salts I don’t have a clue what they are, but the lack of availability looks more of an issue in the forums I read.

it's been fun, later!

November 14, 2010
9:03 pm
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JNewman
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Thanks for all the suggestions. One of the things I want to do is start making some high end wood chisels. I want to be able to reliably aneal them for finishing and then have reapeatable results and produce a very high quality cutting edge. Most of the other stuff I am heat treating a little scale on the surface does not matter but for these I want to be able to get an excellent surface finish. But an electric furnace will hopefully allow me to go a little more by the book for other heat treating, I have a thremocouple in my gas forge but the heat is not very even through the forge so I have to babysit it and compare the colour of the thermocouple to the colour of the pieces being heat treated. As well the gas forge is too hot for tempering but my toaster oven is not hot enough for many things.

I did buy a cheap used electric kiln with thoughts of using it for a salt pot. But by the time I add a controller and the relays to control the kiln it's not going to be that cheap, especially if I include my time. I am not sure I want to deal with all the salt issues and I would still need to get either low temperature salts or a tempering furnace and the salts would not help with anealing.

While any gas can be dangerous because it will displace oxygen. Robert I think you are confusing CO2 with CO. Carbon Monoxide is odourless and will sneak up on you and kill you. Carbon dioxide is what tells your body that you need to breath. You will know immediately if there is too high a concentration of Carbon dioxide.

November 14, 2010
9:33 pm
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Robert Suter
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While I’ll be the first to admit I’m a fool (see avatar), and you may be right, but I’m fairly certain you don’t mean to say CO2 is easily detected and not to worry. If you start out in an ordinary atmosphere and enter a pure CO2 one I’m sure you would notice and would leave if possible, however that may not be the case in practice. Please do not use CO2 indoors without adequate ventilation, and be aware of your mental condition. OK, no wise cracks.
Edit: I forgot to add ventilate from the lowest possible point, if you pull air up it will mix with the rooms oxygen, short term would give you a nice headache, long term not healthy.
Edit #2: I hope you experienced smiths don’t think I’m preaching to you, my concerns are for inexperienced and or young people reading the forum. I do not want to discourage them from pursuing whatever quest they may be on, but I would not want them to be harmed by anything in this forum and especially from anything I may have posted.

it's been fun, later!

November 15, 2010
12:04 am
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JNewman
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I am not saying that carbon dioxide can not be dangerous in elevated levels, and looking it up now it sounds like there are people killed in cellars with high levels of carbon dioxide. But it sounds like walking into a really high concentration of Carbon dioxide is actually the more dangerous situation. But carbon dioxide will cause your breathing rate to increase significantly so it is much less likely to sneak up on you like carbon monoxide will.

But I guess it is a good point that if you are using ANY shielding gas in an electric furnace including charcoal which will create carbon monoxide you should use it in a well ventilated area, and NOT in a basement.

November 15, 2010
2:50 am
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Robert Suter
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Good points, especially on the basement thing, living in the Deep South most of my life doesn’t make me think about those spaces much, but caught in a hole in the ground with no O2 would make a bad end for a day, or a life. You would be surprised how quickly and severely a lack of O2 will confuse you if you don’t know what’s going on, best thing is prevention, and get an alarm if you can afford it.

it's been fun, later!

November 15, 2010
4:03 am
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Grant
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Ah, you're familiar with oxygen deprivation Robert? That explains a lot!:bounce:

“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~

November 15, 2010
4:59 am
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Robert Suter
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With my sweet personality and witty style it seems like there’s always someone around willing to cut off my air supply. I’m use to the confusion it’s the blue face that concerns me.

it's been fun, later!

November 15, 2010
2:11 pm
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Lewis
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If I can condense the safety tips in the last several posts:

Carbon Monoxide is the notorious killer, everyone should have a CO detector in their shop. CO bonds to the oxygen carrying molecules in the blood and can take much time to be displaced after you move to fresh air. CO will enter your blood more quickly than oxygen in the atmosphere, so it can get you even though there is still oxygen in the room. We do not have a built in method of detecting this. As Robert said, get silly, lay down.

Carbon dioxide is the stuff we normally exhale. When you hold your breath it is the build up of CO2 in your blood that creates the need to breath. You would have to drive the oxygen out of the room by displacing it with carbon dioxide (requiring much more volume than carbon monoxide poisoning). (Theoretically, this could happen with large volumes of argon as well.)

Oxygen depletion is when the oxygen in the space gets used up. Depletion implies that it is getting burnt or breathed in and not replaced.

Carbon Monoxide (CO) is the thing we worry about most; it is a product of incomplete combustion and it can poison you in small quantities. It is heavier than air (at the same temperature) so it can readily accumulate in your space. Detectors are available for about $50 and are highly recommended for anyone working inside.

Carbon dioxide (CO2) is naturally present in the air and is also the product of complete combustion. It is also one of the heavier gasses and can accumulate, but is not in itself poisonous, so a much larger amount would be required to displace the oxygen in your shop.

GOOD VENTILATION, GOOD VENTILATION, GOOD VENTILATION!

I think we can agree on that much 🙂

November 15, 2010
3:42 pm
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Robert Suter
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Thanks Lewis, with all my babbling the main points do seem to get lost, don’t they? The concern I have for CO2 is the sheer volume of displacement capacity in a small tank, it can push out the normal air in a closed space in a very short time. It can mix into the air in busy closed spaces while pushing out the O2. If you're distracted working, especially if working hard (or worse, having a few also) it may hit you like a brick, if you go down, you may never recover. CO from fuel burners are a danger in the winter and the alarms are reasonably priced if you need one, CO2 alarms are pricey. My opinion is use CO2 in spaces you don’t occupy and / or leave a door to the outside open so the volume of gas can escape low and quickly.

Edit: Lewis, you’ve done a good job of condensing the essential information here why not post a version into the safety section, perhaps Grant will sticky it. Since I’m handing out jobs like a foreman, while you’re at it don’t forget metal poisoning from zinc and lead. Oh yea an …… Lewis where’d you go???

it's been fun, later!

November 24, 2010
2:43 am
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HWooldridge
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http://www.blue-m.com/products.....#038;tid=1

You may want to poke around on Blue M's site. I got quotes from them a couple years ago for vacuum and inert gas units. They have a lot of good info if you surf a bit.

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