2:24 am
March 18, 2010
6:00 am
March 22, 2010
Its about the third time I've watched this... And it gets neater ever single time.... Man that is a cool hammer..
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
4:12 pm
June 20, 2010
6:13 pm
May 13, 2010
Just came into work this afternoon after moving yesterday, no internet at home till tomorrow afternoon. I have made about 70 of these so far, the first few took quite a bit longer. The one thing that is a little hard on these is the fact that there is no secondary bevel on the tip so they have to be forged to a point. The one thing that may not be obvious in the video is the cutoff tool for the chisel end is not a normal one. It has a 45 on the back side but the front side is just a little steeper than the chisel taper so that after I cut it off, I just need to hit a few blows to blend it in.
7:43 pm
May 13, 2010
12:38 am
June 16, 2010
That's pretty impressive tooling Mr. Newman.
I notice that you had to cut off some of the shank and some of the drawn out point of the chisel. Is there a reason why you don't start with a smaller piece of stock so you don't have to cut off the extra material? Just a rookie asking what is probably obvious.
9:35 pm
May 13, 2010
I am surprised no one asked this question when I originally posted this video over on Iforgeiron. Because I am forging a 1" shank out of 2 3/4" round I only need 3/8" of the parent stock to get the 3" long shank. If I were to try and forge the bar down that far that close to the end it will just roll the corners over forming a "birds mouth" as it rolled it would also squirt the bar out from between the dies as well. The birds mouth would make the shank hollow and split. Even with the amount I forge down I occasionally end up with a folded end in the piece I cut off. I do end up with a bunch of 3" long pieces of 1" square 4340 that I can use for hand tools and I also throw them into Iron in the hat at OABA meetings.
11:04 pm
June 16, 2010
2:47 am
May 13, 2010
5:34 am
March 18, 2010
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