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4:47 pm
March 18, 2011
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Does anyone have a suggestion for what kind of finish I should use for a fireplace surround and screen that I am doing for a custom home. All of my traditional finishes would not hold up well under heat.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Also does anyone have ideas for a source for fireplace screen material.
Thanks in advance!
Don
Don
12:42 am
September 24, 2010
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McNichols Wire for the mesh screen. I usually paint with the $.99 rattle cans found at Home Depot, followed by metallic wax highlights then I clear coat with spar urethane. This holds up just fine to normal use and the finish actually gets harder over time; it takes a lot of heat to peel or flake (i.e., I've never seen it happen after more than 30 years of building screens).
2:28 am
NWBA Member
June 8, 2010
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HWooldridge;16440 wrote: McNichols Wire for the mesh screen. I usually paint with the $.99 rattle cans found at Home Depot, followed by metallic wax highlights then I clear coat with spar urethane. This holds up just fine to normal use and the finish actually gets harder over time; it takes a lot of heat to peel or flake (i.e., I've never seen it happen after more than 30 years of building screens).
Please explain what a "metallic wax highlight" is... This may help Me...:running::running:
2:46 am
August 23, 2010
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I think he is talking about gilders paste.
3:39 am
September 24, 2010
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Yes, guilder's paste - or you can use abrasive cloth to scour the paint and get highlights that way.
10:03 pm
March 18, 2011
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Thank you for the advise, I have never worked with fireplace surrounds and screens.
Don
Don
10:08 pm
September 24, 2010
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Check out my website - I have quite a few screens shown, along with some progress pics.
10:18 pm
March 18, 2011
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What type of screen from McNichols do you use. I looked at their web site and found so much information that I got lost.
Don
Don
10:20 pm
March 18, 2011
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Wow! Nice work!
Don
Don
11:39 pm
September 24, 2010
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I normally use Item # 3608283610, which is 8 mesh, .028 plain steel wire.
4:11 am
April 12, 2010
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I / we use 1 gallon boiled linseed oil, 1 gallon turpentine, and one bottle of japan drier mixed together. Flash the steam off with a torch and rub on with a brush or rag and wipe off. Lately especially with parts that are too light from grinding after fouxing out a weld we put the oil or "schmutz" then spray over it with stove bright high temp black paint while wet and go at it with a braided cup brush on the angle grinder. then gently wipe dry with a clean rag. it will give you a nice fairly even durable black natural Finnish.
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