5:42 am
NWBA Member
September 29, 2011
I couldn't have wished for more or better input. Even some great photographs. When I said "skeleton", I was referring to a kind of "armature", meaning extra, structural help, like a footing or grade beam, made of rebar and concrete. I have made my living as a union carpenter. I believe what Grant describes is common practice for many commercial installers of heavy gates these days. It may be a question of six of one, half a dozen of the other compared to a deep hole with plenty of concrete for the vertical posts. The digging is the only difference I see.
My strategy has to be the grade beam for obvious reasons e.g. two 3,000 pound boulders already in place.
6:18 am
March 18, 2010
It's not really a case of "one or the other" it's more like "one or both". Although I described it as a "U" it's really more like an "H". The posts are still concreted in the ground, but it has the addition of the cross beam.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
8:05 am
March 26, 2010
Yeah the beam underground seems to have many advantages. I've never done it yet but a lot of the "ironwork by numbers" kit form gate "manufacturs" seem to do it
The video below shows how the whole assembly, i.e beam, posts, gates (and elec openers) can be built up in the work shop, adjustments made and the WHOLE assembly lifted off as a unit and set into the ground .......
http://www.rourkes.co.uk/vids/.....ss_dsl.htm
The one shown has the armature posts still visible after installation but it would be easy enough to make the "assembly" so stone piers could be built around the armatures after installation
I always go for adjustment in the hinging , even for the smallest gates. If for no other reason than to get me out of jail free if I've cocked up in the surveying stage .... or the gates end up out square after assemby (heel bars not quite on the money, warpage and pincushioning due to welding, distortion due to galvanising etc etc etc etc etc)
My favoutite and (to me neatest approach) is bolt on hinge blocks and shims top (and sometimes bottom), They have 20mm slots milled in them in them in opposite directions and the other axis (and height adjustment) is taken care of with removable (or additional) shims behind the mounting plates
The "stainless" gates use the same idea for the mounting plate fitted to the wall but the bearings hinges etc are hidden inside the textured structure. Slots and shims on the wall and shims inside covered all the tweaks needed
1:00 pm
January 18, 2011
Plan Ahead, that's all.........
The U approach is ok but way labor intensive and in the case of the two DW gates I posted there are snowmelt lines below grade in the DW. Massive footings below the posts/armatures will accomplish the same thing. If the posts are steel and unsupported at the top they can be set slightly outwards at the top to allow for the inevitable as well.
Out of kilter gates don't fly in Hollywood, Vail or Bum Fuck Egypt. The same rules apply whether the gates weigh a ton or 300 lbs........
I always prefer to adjust from the top down rather the the bottom up. As long as some precautions are taken you likely won't look like a backpedaling dufus....I hate that.
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
12:40 am
NWBA Member
September 29, 2011
I considered all of the great input. Taking it slowly. A bunch of other projects, but I did find some block hinges on Ebay for $25. They are 1 inch square x 4 inches. Bigger would be better maybe esthetically as well as stronger.
I should have called the post, "Heavy gate for me". It's not so heavy after all, but all of the discussion obviously applies.
Here are a couple of photos of block hinges and design. For mounting the upper hinge to the rock, I'm leaning toward all-thread through a weld plate, nuts for adjustment, capped for a little security and decoration. For the bottom hinge, a welded nelson stud type anchor. I'll try to document the progress, slow though it may be.
1:19 am
August 23, 2010
It looks like you will need to redesign your hinge plan. The two pivot points (top and bottom hinges) need to be in line with each other. Your drawing shows lower pivot directly under the upright and the upper hinge welded to the outside. Either use your block hinges top AND bottom or wrap a "collar" type of pivot around your hinge post for the top hinge. May be other ways as well. The way you have it it will lean funny when open and unless the block hinge is very loose will also bind up. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Looks good otherwise.
1:59 am
NWBA Member
September 29, 2011
Hi, thanks, I know it can look that way, but I am attaching to a rock surface that is not plumb (a 5 ft. high by 3.5 ft. diameter) piece of granite, so I will hang it plumb by anchoring the bottom hinge in the appropriate position, in relation to the upper hinge, in concrete. The actual situation is that the upper place of attachment on both pieces of granite, overhangs by about 6 in. the lower granite surface. That's an interesting image though, the gate swinging apart and up when it opens, like a pair of steel wings. Maybe we'll find that to be the action of the pearly gates. Another incentive to try to get there.
2:46 am
January 18, 2011
If the top and bottom pivots/hinges have the same exact axis you've got a hinge, if not it's a torsion spring.
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
3:59 am
NWBA Member
September 29, 2011
4:17 am
August 23, 2010
4:22 am
August 23, 2010
5:31 am
NWBA Member
September 29, 2011
2:35 pm
January 18, 2011
Ken Albert;13381 wrote: Well, now I see what you mean. I guess that's the bottom line value of enlisting others' comments. You might be able to pull it back a ways and fling something across the street, but you'd have a heck of a time getting the car through. OK, there's a big hurdle. Thanks.
No big deal, just offset the bottom pivot as needed.....
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
11:48 pm
NWBA Member
September 29, 2011
6:58 am
September 26, 2010
Here is a gate I did the hardware for. They were 3" thick and about 8 ft at the back. I thnk they were 12 ft wide. The posts were all tied together in concrete foundation. The hinges are 2 1/2" barrels 24" long. Everything was all bolted into the wood and all the plates and bolts hold the gate together. This is one of two sets we did. Their wood worker built and installed the gates. As far as I know nothing has moved yet. These are into the garden.
The other gate is 2 gates 8 ft wide. They are the same kind of hinges, a bit smaller and welded to a plate 4" wide and 1/2" thick. Their are bolts through the bricks to threaded holes in a matching plate inside the brick post and then the brick post was filled with concrete. It is very simple to tighten or loosed the bolts though to match up the center of the gates. They work very well.
3:26 pm
NWBA Member
September 29, 2011
2:11 am
NWBA Member
September 29, 2011
It's a year and a day since I started this crazy gate. Busy, under-skilled and lazy to boot. Well, here's half, that is to say, one leaf…….except for the rail and the reinforcing part of the frame.
I made some small design changes as happens with about everything I ever made.
The blades of the organic part were hot cut out of 1/4 x 1 1/2 stock but I found it too much work to draw and spread to a good silhouette without thinning it down to flimsy, so I changed to the more mechanical riveted version. Then there were the pulled out ears of the negative spaces in the grill that just didn't look all that good. Start over and figure out how to make some triskelions and the four spiral version whatever that's called. The "s" parts were 1 1/2 x 1/4 stock at first but after they were fullered, that seemed too flimsy too, so redo them with 3/8 stock.
There's a bit of funkiness that I tell myself is because of my taste, but if my skills were better a lot of that would disappear and I'd be happier with it.
The supporting structure was discussed earlier in the thread.
Grant put his two cents in and now he's missed his chance to tell me what's left out.
I started with the two hunks of granite in place and no inclination to move them, so I dug a trench for a grade beam from rock to rock, steel epoxyed into both, several rings binding the horizontals in the beam. I left extra bar stubbed out to tie to the footing steel around the rocks, dug a trench around both, tied footing to grade beam and blocked out the center of the grade beam so I could locate a hole for a locking bar later.
Almost forgot the weld plates on the surface of the beam next to each rock to weld the bottom hinges, making sure they are in the same plane with the top hinges to facilitate gate functioning as gate, not fence.
Think I'll make some of the other, smaller things I've drawn before I do the other leaf.
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