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Handles for short power hammer tools?
May 20, 2011
1:49 am
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D_Evans
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I can't seem to find any info about putting the light twisted round stock handles on tool for the air hammer- can anyone suggest a link or tutorial?
Thanks!

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

May 20, 2011
3:56 am
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Larry L
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mmm... I cant, never done it that way... Doesn't seem like that great of handle to me.. Do you have some tools like that you like? I have a few and they really are not my favorite.. I prefer a much more positive handle... the tool and handle either made from one chunk or the handle welded on

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

May 20, 2011
4:54 am
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D_Evans
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Larry, I have had several folks recommend this type of handle in case something goes wrong. I am just now starting to use hand-held tools under the air hammer and want to start out with tools that have the least injury potential.

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

May 20, 2011
5:45 am
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Neil Gustafson
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Good Morning,

I have found that if you make the handles stiff, they will break. Single piece of 1/4"x1" flat bar about 15-18" long, c/w a short piece of pipe over the flat bar at the end for a handle. Works dandy, takes a lot of twang out of your arm/elbow when the work cools down.
Lasts the longest before breaking next to the weld.

K.I.S.S.:bounce:

As long as we are above our shoes, We know where we are.:happy:

May 20, 2011
6:35 am
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Larry L
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Light is good, you just need enough to keep the tool where you want it.... 3/16 X 1 flat bar is great... as is a chunk of 5/16 round bar or what ever you happen to have... if its to heavy just forge a little divot in your handle so you have a spot for it to bend before it jolts your hand...

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

May 20, 2011
12:18 pm
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JNewman
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I use a lot of 5/16 round and 3/8 round for tool handles welded on. For the hand end I have switched to a ring like you would find on an eye bolt. I find it gives me a lot of control and is quite comfortable. I can bend a bunch of them up ahead of time on the Hossfeld or they are quick to make hot on the anvil. For punches where you may need some torque to twist them free I have recently started to copy a handle Grant uses on the OC punches, I take a piece of pipe and flatten the shank of the tool leaving the handle round I then weld that on.

May 26, 2011
2:28 pm
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Stumptown Forge
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I have been using a Handle that I learned to make from Arnon it is made of wire cable and forged welded at one end. Then it is twisted in the vise and then the handle is formed by untwisting like a basket element. Due to the forge welding and twisting it acts as a spring. I find this handle rigid yet extremely comfortable in the hand. Also if you have a small miss blow the handle does not bend and shock your hand.

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May 26, 2011
2:42 pm
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Stumptown Forge
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One of the things I don't see discussed here is the material used in your tooling. This is critical. I try to use Mild steel or purposely keep my power hammer tools softer than anything I would use on the anvil. I use a lot of H13 and make sure I soften the head of the tool. The type of material you use for your tooling has everything to do with safety. Imagine the shrapnel of a over hardened tool if it is hit hard enough to fail. The other huge safety issue is using the proper welding technique and rod - preheating so that the handle does not fail on the tool. Lastly you want a nice crown to the tool. Think about how you want the tool to hit. Think about where the hammer die will hit the tool and how you will control the tool. Finally use the right size tool for the job. Yes this means making a lot of tools...thats what we do. Safety under the power hammer is a state of mind. There I go preaching about safety again.

May 27, 2011
2:52 am
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Larry L
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Stumptown Forge;10310 wrote: I have been using a Handle that I learned to make from Arnon it is made of wire cable and forged welded at one end. Then it is twisted in the vise and then the handle is formed by untwisting like a basket element. Due to the forge welding and twisting it acts as a spring. I find this handle rigid yet extremely comfortable in the hand. Also if you have a small miss blow the handle does not bend and shock your hand.

Thats a good looking tool Ken.... So is the whole shank kind of welded? ( by kind of I mean maybe twist it good and tight flux a bit and tap togeter... Not like if you where trying to make it solid)

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

May 27, 2011
3:14 am
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Ryan Wilson
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we use super quenched mild steel for most all of our hammer tooling.

May 27, 2011
1:55 pm
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Stumptown Forge
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Larry what I do is just tack both siders of the cable with a mig and then forge weld the very end of the cable about one inch on the front and 1/2" on the back a little flux and then twist. the main thing is that it does not unwind. If you want more spring you can cut out some of the wires.

May 27, 2011
2:38 pm
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Larry L
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Im going to gather up some wire and give that a shot... some of my real big fullers (like bigger than 1 1/2) could really hurt you if you got it out of wack under a big hammer...

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

May 29, 2011
4:52 am
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D_Evans
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I was watching a '95 UMBA demo by Robb Gunter last night, and he talked some and made one of the small twisted wire handles for power hammer tools.
I will post a couple pics when I get one done that doesn't embarrass me 🙂

Dave

No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why.
- Mignon McLaughlin

http://WinDancerKnives.com

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