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2:40 pm
March 22, 2010
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So quite some time ago I was kind of poo pooing my cold saw on another chat group where Ries is also a member and he had said you have to have a solid table for your cold saw ( I had a roller table) I thought that was grand advice... The roller table my saw came with was not very conducive to indexing angle cuts or measuring stock... My biggest complaint with the cold saw is its a bitch to measure single or short run things (hard to drag the tape because of having to bring the blade down and hold it and move the stock all togehter..) So after some digging around I found this digital stop system and built me a new flat table... I cant really report much yet as I just got it finished last night but I feel it will really make running small batch parts great.. The readout is basicly a liniar scale, it will read in standard or metric and you can set its accuracy level from one to three decimal points or have it read in fractions (to 32nds) This one is 10' long but you can get them longer or shorter.. The stop flips up when you dont want it there and also comes with a couple hard stops that go in the track which flip up or down so you can index several cuts quickly.... The little fine adjust knob lets you get close and then dial in down to a gnat's ass...
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
4:12 am
NWBA Member
April 22, 2010
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My stop is analog-
3:11 pm
NWBA Member
April 19, 2010
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ive used the analog version a few different places ... it is handy with a cheapo chop saw also (tho theyre noisy and messy) one of these days ide like to get a cold saw ... i think you will use it a lot more now larry!
5:43 pm
May 22, 2010
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very nice setup, though all the setups I have used are like ... Analog ... nuttin digital about it all, =)
Having a nice digital setup is very nice, easy on the eyes instead of trying to figure out which hashmark that faded/scratched one was at one time, lol.
Brad Roland :hot:
12:53 am
March 22, 2010
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There is an outfit that ,makes a very nice analog stop for a saw and I would have actually rather had it, but this one was 1/5th the money...
I probably would have built something and made it work but I had a job that had some extra and it bought this thing... I think it will be a good long term investment in time savings, but it wasn't cheap... I forget what it cost exactly but I think right about a thousand bucks...
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
4:53 pm
NWBA Member
April 22, 2010
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A grand?
Thats what I paid for my cold saw.
But I totally understand- I have quite a few tools that cost silly amounts of money, and I maybe coulda kludged a workaround with enough time- but in each case, they have MADE me far more money than they cost.
Think about Grant, and his Haas CNC mill- it cost more than my first house did, and yet he has used it to make tens of thousands of specialized tools, which we all benefit from...
5:28 pm
March 22, 2010
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Yeah I couldn't spend that On one today but last spring when I bought it I had Plenty of work and just finished a $20k job that only took 10 days. Seemed reasonable then. I paid a grand for the saw as well, so an expensive accessory
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln
2:14 am
May 14, 2010
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Larry and Ries,
I'm late to the party here, but I just picked up a sweet 350 LT Scotchman cold saw. I'm looking to figure out an infeed and outfeed system for it. Not sure I have another grand to sink into a system like Larry's, but it does look like a sweet timesaver...Thanks for the tips and ideas. In the meantime, this little piece of equipment has caused a gigantic chain reaction in the shop. Where to put it...? Time to do the equipment shuffle again. Crap.
-DB
2:29 am
NWBA Member
April 22, 2010
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David, I have a 20 foot rack in my shop, that is 5 shelves tall- about one per foot, so the top shelf is five feet up.
One of em, number 4, is right level with the cold saw cutting deck height. I built a stand for my cold saw after I already had the rack.
So I can slide a 20 footer from the rack right onto the cold saw, and its held level on the long end by the rack.
On the left, on the other side, I have a 12 foot piece of 5" channel, as shown in the pic above. This is bolted to the cold saw, to keep it level with the cutting deck as well, and then it has legs that are bolted to the floor. Total length, 36 feet or so- a big chunk, for sure. But every 20 footer comes in to the shop (thru a little 1' x 1' trapdoor in the wall with a roller on the bottom side), and goes right onto that rack. I move the material I want to cut to the saw height shelf, and slide it over.
12' on the left means I can cut any part size I want from a 20 footer- most cuts are less than ten, or the drops are- so I can use my tape measure stop system to cut almost everything without measuring and marking.
The stop in the picture was just made from scrap, copied from a biesemeyer chop saw stop- like this one-
http://www.portercable.com/Pro.....ctID=13595
You can buy sticky back tape measures online, cheap, or at places like woodcraft.
So my total investment in the cutoff stop gage system was under a hundred bucks, and that is figuring paying for new steel.
The other thing I use in my shop, for my ironworker, is big hunky roller stands.
These are a big piece of 1/4" plate, maybe a 20" circle, a piece of 3" pipe, and, on top, an 18" wide roller made from 1 1/2" pipe. I have two of these, they are easy to move around, mine are made the proper height for my ironworker shear, but you could even make em adjustable height. Then you use them to hold the long end of the material you are cutting on the cold saw. More hassle to move em around than a fixed shelf system, but it would work.
4:31 am
May 14, 2010
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Thanks Ries,
I really like your outfeed table out of channel. I'm not sure how much dedicated space I'll have for the infeed and outfeed tables until I juggle some machinery in the shop around.
-DB
11:27 pm
NWBA Member
April 22, 2010
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quick sketch of how the cold saw outfeed table works.
of course, this would work as infeed as well.
I just drilled and tapped a couple of holes in the coldsaw base, and bolted this right to it.
11:31 pm
January 18, 2011
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That looks pretty slick, but only a hack would drill and tap a machine like that! Welding guilt has really gotten to you man:unsure:
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
3:51 am
May 13, 2010
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I built something simpler and cruder than Ries setup for my old bandsaw. A piece of angle iron with the longer leg acting as a table. Then on the shorter vertical leg I had one of those stick on tapes. I just clamped a block of steel as a stop to the vertical leg with a small bessey clamp. It worked well but it would often bind on the blade so I couldn't remove the cutoff steel or raise the blade without releasing the vice which would allow the blade to deflect allowing the blade to raise. A few times the blade bound up while finishing the cut due to the stop.
I would like to build a somethng similar to Ries and Larry's setups for my new bandsaw but I have to make sure that it does not cause the binding issue I had with the old saw. It just has the extremely crude, casting clamped on a rod stop that takes a long time to set up and often takes a cut or two before it is cutting right on size.
3:59 am
NWBA Member
April 22, 2010
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The Biesemeyer clamp stop is really simple to build. One T handle, welded to a bolt, and it tightens down with about a 1/4 turn.
Rather than make a snazzy piece of plexiglas, and scribe a line on it, I just ground a piece of flat bar to an edge, kind of like a plane blade, and painted it bright orange. You line up the sharp edge of the orange steel with the line on the tape measure. Its accurate past a 1/16" and thats good enough for me.
I drilled and tapped the end of the stop, and put on a piece of angle iron at the end for the business end of the stop. Because its got about 3/4" long piece of 1/4" bolt, it flexs just enough that it doesnt bind.
However, it isnt that expensive to just buy the biesemeyer stop- and then its all ready to go.
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