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New/old shape cutter machine
July 8, 2011
2:54 pm
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Larry L
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I have had this thing for a couple of years.... for a year and a half I had guys working on the tracer unit trying to figure out why it wouldnt follow a pattern... After three techs and sending the unit to the manufacture twice.... turns out the guy who "reconditioned" it wired the motors to the tracer backwards... so it couldn't stay on pattern... Anyway I had some parts to cut out of 3/4 plate and some 3/8 deck plate that I needed cut into 12" strips so I built a cutting table and went to try and figure out how to make this thing work.. It did a fantastic job on both.... the rectangles where for runway end stop extensions for the crane at Nucor steel... seems they keep running the bridge into the far wall of the shop..

I really need to find someone who has run a burny 2.5 and or the optical tracer and get some info to lesson my learning curve... But once I kind of get up to speed I think this will be a great addition to the shop..

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Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

July 8, 2011
4:11 pm
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Lewis
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Always thought a tracer sounded like a great idea for some of us lower tech folks that don't have or need CAD drawings of our stuff. Looks like a great tool, glad to see it's finally making some money. 😀

July 8, 2011
4:18 pm
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Ries
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I looked at Burny's, but at the time I was shopping, at least 10 years ago now, they wanted $12k for the control head, and another $8k for software, so I just kept on plugging away with optical trace.

I have been running my optical trace machine since 1992, so I know how to make that work.
It hasnt every really broken, though, so I am not that experienced at repairing it, but if you have any questions about patterns or cutting, I know a fair amount.

I run mine with plasma, not oxy-fuel- when I need stuff thicker than 1/2" or so cut, I send it out, everett steel cuts plate up to 6" or 8" with no problems.

Them's nice rectangles. Now you gotta kick it up a notch-
cut a few holes in something, maybe...
These are both just cut from paper patterns, lotsa sharpie drawing by hand.
The big galvanized panel, in Wiggums Hollow Park in Everett, is 4x8 x 3/16" plate.
The bench is about 6 feet long, its just 1/8" and 14 gage, which has been powdercoated.
With my machine, you have to manually locate the beginning of each cut, then push the off button at the end, so something like this is a lot of baby sitting and button pushing.

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July 8, 2011
6:26 pm
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David Edgar
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Nice work Ries, especially the bench honouring the cigar smokers, just to get up the noses of the anti smoking lobby, what is the material for the seating area? is it fabric?

July 8, 2011
9:42 pm
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Ries
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All steel.
The seat is 16 gage, which is heated and wrapped around the round bar frame.

July 8, 2011
10:06 pm
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Larry L
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Really just plain ol sharpie? I can't seem to get a clean enough line that it will follow

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

July 8, 2011
10:12 pm
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Larry L
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What do you do lead in and out? Or like a dwell to pierce?

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

July 8, 2011
10:22 pm
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Ries
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My machine follows sharpie just fine.
When I dont like a shape, I can use whiteout, and then redraw.

I started out fussing around with lead in lines, but quickly just gave up em as too much work. My machine has a very short dwell function built in- you press the start button, its pierces, and then it starts cutting. It makes a small round pierce mark, but in most cases, its too small to worry about. I grind or sand it out if needed, but it hardly ever is- but, remember, this is with plasma, which makes a much smaller pierce than oxy-fuel.
My plasma power supply is a Thermal Dynamics Pak 75, so its 75 amps, more or less- it will cut 1/2" fine, gets a bit wonky above that thickness, but the vast majority of stuff I cut is 1/4" or thinner, in which case piercing is much less of an issue.

With really thick stuff, and oxy fuel, it would seem lead ins would be mandatory.

July 9, 2011
1:00 am
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Larry L
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I'm having issues were it doubles back on the same line rather than follow the pattern around. Are you using anything special for paper?

Whatever you are, be a good one.
Abraham Lincoln

July 9, 2011
2:04 am
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Gene C
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Do you have a schematic? If it's real vintage and has electrolytic capacitors, try changing them. Clean the lens that follows the track. Re tighten all the wiring screws, just a tad, gentlly blow dust out of control box. Check power supply voltages. go over the wiring harness, if it's really old the wires can crack where they turn or twist back and forth. The mechanical arms and pivot joints, loose or lost motion?? Relays, plug in or other, check the contacts. Just some thoughts from a old maintenance guy.

Had a really old system in the shipfitter shot at Keyport Torpedo Station. It was fairly reliable, seem to remember it had some adjustment pots, gain or offset, that sometimes had to be tweaked. It had vacuum tubes, we changed them any time it acted up as a matter of procedure. I don't recall it ever changing direction. It may have had some radius tracking limitations.

Thought on paper thickness, proablly should be thick enought so no shadows that might track from beneath the paper.

Was about 30 plus years ago. Keyport had a plating plant and heat treat facility right out of a horror movie. All the industrial machines and facilties, left years ago.

Gene C.

July 10, 2011
8:17 pm
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Ries
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The only problems I have ever had with my machine, which I bought new in 92, were with overheating resistors- in my case, the one that is in the voltage sensing circuit that measures the plasma cutter voltage to adjust the height- but its true, capacitors can also wear out.

I think I am just lucky that my machine is well made. Its a C&G, which wasnt as big a player as Koike or MG, but has made a lot of machines over the years, and it has always just worked.

I use 4' wide white butcher paper, I buy a roll of it every few years from big paper supply houses- we use it for all kinds of patternmaking in the shop, as well as for cutting machine patterns.
I have never had a problem with the machine not reading sharpie lines.
I do know that almost every machine ever made uses the same electric eye unit, and that they sometimes go bad, and need replacement or rebuilding.
HL-90 or HL-93, I think, originally Westinghouse made.

Something is wrong with the electric eye, or the control circuit, if it wont follow a line. Does yours have the little flashlight bulb, and does it work?
They wont work well without the light.

There should also be, as Gene says, gain controls on the control board, and they may need adjusting.

I am ok with electrical, pretty clueless when it comes to troubleshooting actual electronics- but this is not a very complicated system, and it shouldnt be that hard to fix.

July 11, 2011
7:56 am
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Gene C
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some how those bulb numbers rang a bell, been years ago,

Electronics, yuk, had a flatbed scanner go TU today. Thats #4 scanner in the last 20 years. Way cheaper now than 20 years ago.

June 8, 2023
9:03 am
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karinacooper25
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Gene C said
some how those bulb numbers rang a bell, been years ago,

Electronics, yuk, had a flatbed scanner go TU today. Thats #4 scanner in the last 20 years. Way cheaper now than 20 years ago.  

Can you tell me where to buy Blender & Grinder for myself?

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