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2:50 pm
January 18, 2011
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Waiting around for a shipment of rivets wasn't an option for a particular job I was involved in once so necessity prevailed...............simply a block with a hole 1/64 over size,,,,thickness of the block is the length you want the rivet........OA torch...... and the pix tell the rest...............I hammered this one but a header works fine too.
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
11:55 pm
August 14, 2010
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I've got a couple of those tools. Put one on a handle and use it under the power hammer. I throw a handful of blanks in the gas forge. They shrink inside the hole as they cool.
Do NOT deburr or chamfer the edges of the hole. If that winds up on the bottom it can be like a countersunk rivet and hard to remove. :p
12:05 am
January 18, 2011
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You should imo use a torch, heating the whole blank will often seize the rivet, the one in the pic dropped out...I'm too type ''A'' to wait for cooling.....:-).........Or do you quench em Lewis?
I did a cold one this morning for the pics under the PH and it ain't never comin' out...
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
12:39 am
January 18, 2011
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Well true to form my type ''A'' kicked in and I couldn't wait for your answer....The forge worked great and under the PH the dead vertical blow prevented any shifting....After quenching I tapped the bottom of the rivet with the tong rein and then pulled it out with my fingers.....I may have, as is my habit, chamfered the the hole....
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
2:46 pm
August 14, 2010
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Not really much point in my answering now is there. :redface:
I quench 'em and they usually drop right out, sometimes they need a little tap on the anvil. I usually make a few extra each time. It takes seconds, but can save hours later.
I think that heating the whole thing is part of what makes it work under the power hammer, even if the shank upsets or bends a little that is overcome by the shrinkage when quenched.
3:40 pm
NWBA Member
July 19, 2011
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Why not counter sink the hole in the header? I always counter sink the hole that recieve rivets. I am an old anal machinist trying to learn new tricks. But counter sinks leaver no stress or shear points. Of course, I am only talking about a thirty-second deep.
4:21 pm
January 18, 2011
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Gene Bland;14439 wrote: Why not counter sink the hole in the header? I always counter sink the hole that recieve rivets. I am an old anal machinist trying to learn new tricks. But counter sinks leaver no stress or shear points. Of course, I am only talking about a thirty-second deep.
I agree......CS on top helps lessen the sharp shoulder, on the bottom it's trouble.
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind."
— Dr. Seuss
10:24 pm
August 14, 2010
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I confess, mine does have a slight countersink on top to avoid the sharp corner issue. I try to strike a balance between big enough to see when greasy and dirty and not so big that it interferes with the edge of the hole in the actual work.
:redface:
10:39 pm
May 13, 2010
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I find it worthwhile on tools like this that look the same upside down but are not the same to use a paint marker or rattle can to identify the top of the tool.
2:40 am
August 14, 2010
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JNewman;14445 wrote: I find it worthwhile on tools like this that look the same upside down but are not the same to use a paint marker or rattle can to identify the top of the tool.
That will be a great idea if I can remember it before the tool has lain over by the hammer for a couple of years and gotten covered in oily dust. :p I could probably make a new one faster than I could clean this one up enough to hold paint, which means I'll do neither.
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