3:50 am
May 12, 2010
Grant , I wanted to ask your opinion on something concerning the 4b I run at work.
This concerns the locater pin in the top die.
How much movement or slop should I have between the pin size and the hole size in the die and the hole in the ram? I hope I have made my question clear.
I am planning to pull the dies soon to have them faced off as they are getting quite a bit of wear in the center and if I need to have the locator hole redone I would like to do it then.
Thanks for the forum.
Steve
4:27 pm
March 18, 2010
Wish I hd my old 4-B so I could show you what I did. I machined out the location in the die and made a stepped pin. How sloppy is it? Just need to keep the die from shifting left-to-right.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
3:51 am
May 12, 2010
Grant, the pin that is in it is stepped. Meaning that the part of the pin in the top die is larger than the section that is in the ram.
I would guess there is maybe a 1/4 inch of play in the die side of the pin.
I also need to make a new key. I plan to forge it to the rough shape and then hot fit it.
Its not a flat tapered key. It does have taper of course but the side that goes against the ram is more of a quarter round type shape.
Thanks for the reply.
Are you planning to attend the Abana conf?
Steve
8:03 pm
May 13, 2010
Steve when I made a new key for the Massey I tried hot fitting it and did not have a lot of luck with that. I found it just upset at the big end of the dovetail and never fit up well. I machined the key and then spent an hour or two with high spot bluing and afile fitting it really well. As machined it would not stay tight for more than half an hour to an hour of forging. I would think you could forge it pretty close and then rough fit it with a grinder and bluing and then finish it with a file. When I made mine I was not used to the power the Massey had and the quick and dirty top key I had made was not staying in well at all so I machined it.
8:17 pm
March 18, 2010
No, I won't be going to the ABANA conference.
Good luck with the hammer, John has some good input there. Ya really gotta have a good fitting key, that's for sure. As you might know I'm a big proponent of lubing the key. They drive in farther, stay tight and come out easier.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
3:44 am
May 12, 2010
John, thanks for your thoughts on the new key.
Does the key in the Massey have a flat taper only or is it shaped like the key I have ?
I have not seen another key like this in a 4B.
I figured I would get the key close by forging and grinding/filing and then finish up with the hot fit.
Grant, I took your advice long ago on lubing the keys. Also, it seems that no matter how good the seals are on an airhammer you will always have some leakage or blow by that gets in there with the keys as you use the hammer.
I pulled and replaced the guide plates and the leather seals last year. Its a much tighter hammer now.
That was a time consuming job that was worth all the time it took to fit the guides and the seals.
4:48 am
March 18, 2010
Seems you might have missed a good chance to rebore the center pin hole if you had the ram out, or does that part fit OK?
My keys were of similar shape due to the very large radius in the ram dovetail.
Lubing seems counter-intuitive, but my experience has only been positive.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
12:49 pm
May 13, 2010
5:26 pm
March 18, 2010
That's about what I remember of my 4-B. I usually machined a 7° parallelogram taper and then ground a heavy bevel (you can draw or calculate the bevel) then ground off the two new corners and worked it into a radius.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
2:50 am
May 12, 2010
Yep, the ram has a large radius in it just like yours Grant. The die pin seemed fine when we had it out. I really need to get the new key made though.
Am really getting tired of having to retighten it a couple times a day. Its just wore out and does not hold like it used to. Used to be that I could go for weeks without having to wack it with a sledge. Always have to go find help when I want to tighten it too. I have a drift that is held and a hefty pair of tongs to hit it with. That's the one thing I do not like about the 4B, that the key goes up inside the ram and you always have to keep an eye on it so ya don't screw up the guide plates.
I forge quite a bit a bigger stock under it and it gets plenty of jarring around at times from the alloys I forge. Not much 1020 forged on it.
Bigger stock would be four and five inch square and round.
6:25 am
March 18, 2010
Pretty big stock for a hammer that size. It'll do it of course, just kinda tough on the operator. Ought to have a 700 or 800 or more if you do alloy that big regularly. I used to put up "sissy rails" working big stock in my 500. Just an angle with two vertical bars bolted to the front of the sow block that keep the work from going sideways off the die. Specially handy on a long piece.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
11:51 am
May 13, 2010
2:24 am
March 18, 2010
Well looky here; just happen to be making some die wedges today. Machine them square first, then use these special jaws (10° in this case). I machine both sides down pretty close to thickness then take it out and orient myself to the die (so confusing to get the taper right and on the right side). Then I put it back in the vise and indicate in the taper (1/8:12). Remember if you need to put it back in to take off a little more that then you indicate it 0 – 0! Then I grind the sharp corners to the appropriate bevel and grind in the radius.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
2:47 am
May 12, 2010
John, most of the pieces are short, maybe 6 to 10 inches long. Mostly forging test bars from this stock but I forge quite a few of them Most every customer wants a piece of the material that their forgings are made from for testing, bot destructive and non-destructive.
I do forge much smaller tests also. Many are finished at 1 1/8 round 12 inches long.
I know they do yield point and tensile tests with these. Not sure how much jominies are done anymore.
I wish I had a jib crane to handle some of them with as they get pretty heavy. Some weigh over a 100lbs when I am done. That gets old hauling in and out of the furnace. A bigger hammer as Grant says would be nicer at times to be able to get more work done in a heat.
I keep hounding them about the jib. Maybe someday.
Grant I have seen those sissy bars. They would work well for keeping the stock on the die.
Hard to keep a 100 lb piece from going where it wants sometimes.
Nice setup on the key machining. I don't know enough about it to even be dangerous.
If I want something machined I take it to the guys that know how.
They come to me when they need something made so they can machine it.
3:00 am
March 18, 2010
I used to love doing test pieces. Jorgenson was just down the street from me. They also had me do upset testing, send me a piece maybe 5" diameter X 12" long and I'd upset it down to 5 - 6 inches. Best test in the world for surface defects. Used to make gear blanks the same way.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
4:56 am
May 13, 2010
It's amazing how big the foundation has to be for a free standing jib crane thats probably why they havn't done it yet. I have thought about building a small one using my platen table as the foundation, its the solid type its 6" thick in the middle as well as the edges. The other thought is when I get a forklift I could build something off it.
5:42 am
March 18, 2010
Reminds me of my "hillbilly upsetter". Many years ago when I had a small shop I had a job upsetting a head on 6" bar about 10 feet long. They just needed to be able to make a 2" long X 8" round collar on the end. So I made a quick setup to hang two long chains from my forklift. We'd pull it out of the forge, drive back a few feet and line it up with the the front of my old Howe power hammer (had a nice flat front) and go into out Viking battering ram personas. Just swing back as far as we could and bash it into the front of that anvil! Thirty years ago, and I think I was getting $300 then! Used to do 8 -10 per month.
As an aside, here's how I arrived at price: They had been buying 8" 4140 and turning it all down. 6" X 10 foot long is 1000 pounds, 8" is 1600 pounds. Well, 4140 at that time was about 50 cents a pound, so I knew they would be happy getting my part for the same price and not having to pay someone to make 600 pound of chips.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
4:14 am
May 12, 2010
Grant, that sounds like nothing but hot heavy work even with the work hanging from a lift.
It got the job done and money in your pocket though and thats what counts in the end.
You must have had a bigger hammer than a 4B to upset that big of stock.
They upset tests also , but they get done at the hammer they are forging the job on.
Mostly smaller stock they do this to.Maybe upto 4 inch but mostly smaller stuff.
I get all the tests I want to do.
Tomorrow I have 8 of them to do. I have to have the guy from the lab down with a pyrometer.
This is some touchy aircraft grade material with a 200 degree forging window to work in.
When he says Go, I go, when he says Stop,I stop
Start at 2050 and stop at 1850.
Its called Pyroware.
John, those free standing jibs do take a huge foundation. I have been in on a couple installs for them in the plant.
4:52 am
March 18, 2010
Yeah, I had an 800 and 1500 pound steam hammer. Bout three foot of stroke on the 1500. Had a nice spread of hammers for the work I was doing. Had my 4-B too - for doin' the light work!
Hot and heavy? Yeah, but I was young and hungry too. Took in all kinds of jobs that I had absolutely no idea how we would do them. But I always figured it out. I do love to challenge myself.
“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
2:34 pm
May 14, 2010
Grant;615 wrote: Reminds me of my "hillbilly upsetter". Many years ago when I had a small shop I had a job upsetting a head on 6" bar about 10 feet long. They just needed to be able to make a 2" long X 8" round collar on the end. So I made a quick setup to hang two long chains from my forklift. We'd pull it out of the forge, drive back a few feet and line it up with the the front of my old Howe power hammer (had a nice flat front) and go into out Viking battering ram personas. Just swing back as far as we could and bash it into the front of that anvil! Thirty years ago, and I think I was getting $300 then! Used to do 8 -10 per month.
I'd pay a nickle to see that!:bounce:
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