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Forge Welding Problems
April 3, 2011
5:43 am
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Eric Sprado
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I REALLY hate to agree with you Grant-but that is the way I was taught to weld my bar shoes a zillion years ago.. It also gives you some extra stock to play with instead of having a thinned out weld area...That same drawing may be seen on page 68 of War Department Technical Manual No. 2-2220 "The Horseshoer". You know the old saying " nuthin new goin on just different folks doin it"... Eric S.

April 3, 2011
6:23 am
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Dave
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I only have a shop that is converted barn with 220 single phase. Induction may be out of my pocket book and not feasible with my electrical limitations.

April 3, 2011
1:56 pm
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JimB
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Grant/Eric: I've seen that method used for smaller stock since it's a pain to upset and cools so quickly. Never had to join anything that small so I've never tried it.

Never seen anybody weld with an induction forge. Wouldn't you have to use an inert shielding gas to prevent oxidation?

█▐▐█▐▐ ▌█▐ ▌▐

April 4, 2011
2:49 am
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Ryan Wilson
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I would think you would need to flux your piece just the same as if it was in a coal or gas forge.

You might try making some chain links and perfect your welds using chain. Work out the bugs on something easy.

April 4, 2011
3:25 am
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Grant
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It's better with flux, but it can be done without. One demo I like is butt-welding two bars in the coil by just pushing and twisting them a little, and then bend it 90 degrees.

“There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~

April 4, 2011
3:45 pm
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Dave
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Grant: But where is all the fun in welding made easy. I mean, you would miss the frustration, the pain, the agony, the learning through failure, the mind bending hours of trying to figure out how to forge welding using the drop tong method. I mean, students wouldn't have to worry about the upcoming forge weld and could actually concentrate on the project at hand. Please, what would happen to the learning method of "no pain, no gain". So, how do I get one of these miracle machines? Is there one for a small shop, 220 single phase that doesn't cost and arm and a leg for those people who don't like electricity? There is always "hope".

April 5, 2011
12:31 am
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Roy Miller
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Dave I have been forging damascus in my 2 burner NC knife forge for years, but there was a time it wouldn't work. What I found was that the orifice for the gas needed to be cleaned. I used the tip cleaner for my torch and gave it a good reaming. I also run my reg at a "good" 15 psi. that gives me a rich mixture. Also try preheating your anvil.

Roy Miller ( His Knives )
http://hisknives.com

April 5, 2011
1:21 am
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Dave
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Roy: Thanks for the advise. I never thought about cleaning the orifice and I will do that ASAP. Also, I usually run at 10 psi, so I will kick it up a little to see what happens.
Thanks. Dave

April 6, 2011
1:23 am
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Mike B
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On my Guild's Whisper Daddy, the cross tube that feeds the orifices tends to fill up with rust. Every year or so we have to take it apart and dump it out. It's stored in unheated shop and isn't really used regularly, so that may have something to do with it.

Don't be afraid to crank on the regulator until you get the heat you need.

April 6, 2011
1:49 am
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Lewis
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Dave;9158 wrote: Roy: Thanks for the advise. I never thought about cleaning the orifice and I will do that ASAP. Also, I usually run at 10 psi, so I will kick it up a little to see what happens.
Thanks. Dave

Higher pressure equals more fuel equals more heat delivered to the work. 😉

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